Tuxtla Gutiérrez

Just a few miles from the edge of the city, rock walls plunge nearly 3,300 feet down to the Río Grijalva – Sumidero Canyon is the main reason travelers come to Tuxtla Gutiérrez. If you plan a day in the state capital on a trip through Chiapas, you'll also find marimba evenings, one of the best zoos in Latin America, and hearty regional cuisine.

From Coyatoc to State Capital

The name Tuxtla comes from the Nahuatl word for "place of the rabbits," while the original Zoque settlement was called Coyatoc. After the Conquest, Tuxtla remained a small town in the shadow of San Cristóbal de las Casas, which was the capital of Chiapas until 1892. Then the government moved its seat to lower-lying, warmer Tuxtla. The addition of Gutiérrez honors Joaquín Miguel Gutiérrez, a politician who fought for Chiapas to join Mexico. Today the city is the economic center of the state, modern and functional, with roots that are still visible in the San Roque neighborhood and in Copoya.

Sights in Tuxtla Gutiérrez

A must is the boat trip through Sumidero Canyon, which departs from the dock in Chiapa de Corzo or from the Cahuaré shore. Along the way you'll see crocodiles, spider monkeys, waterfalls such as the Árbol de Navidad, whose moss resembles a Christmas tree, and sheer rock walls. From above, several viewpoints along the scenic road offer breathtaking views into the gorge. In the city, ZooMAT, the Miguel Álvarez del Toro Zoo, is worth a visit; it exhibits only animals from Chiapas, including jaguars, quetzals, and tapirs, in natural enclosures in the forest. In the center you'll find San Marcos Cathedral with its carillon and the Parque de la Marimba.

Museums and Marimba

The Museo Regional de Chiapas in Parque Madero displays finds from the Olmec, Maya, and Zoque cultures as well as colonial-era art. The botanical garden and the Teatro de la Ciudad are in the same park. In the evening, the Parque de la Marimba is the meeting place: an orchestra plays the wooden xylophone, considered the national instrument of Chiapas, and couples of all ages dance under the trees. If you're looking for the roots of Zoque culture, head to Copoya, a district on a hill south of the city where religious festivals are celebrated with traditional dances. The large Cristo de Chiapas monument with its views is also located there.

Eating in Tuxtla Gutiérrez

Chiapas cuisine is a reason to stay. Typical dishes include tamales in many varieties, such as with chipilín herb or beans, and cochito horneado, oven-roasted pork with spices. Sopa de pan, a bread soup with vegetables and raisins, is served at festivals. To drink, try pozol, a beverage made from fermented corn and cocoa that the Maya already knew, or tascalate, a cold drink made from corn, cocoa, and achiote. At the Mercado Juan Sabines and in the restaurants around the Parque de la Marimba, you can sample these specialties inexpensively. Chiapas is also an important coffee-growing region, and the city's cafés serve beans from the highlands.

Getting Around Tuxtla Gutiérrez

Ángel Albino Corzo Airport (TGZ) is about 19 miles southeast and has connections to Mexico City, Monterrey, and Cancún. From there and from the bus station, a well-built expressway takes you up to San Cristóbal de las Casas in about an hour. In the city, the Conejobús, a bus rapid transit system, is supplemented by colectivos and taxis. The city is generally trouble-free for visitors, but you should plan overland trips in Chiapas for daytime and check current advisories.

Best Time to Visit and Day Trips

The best time to visit is between November and April, when it's dry and visibility in the canyon is clear. May can get very hot, and from June to October the rainy season brings heavy showers, though the waterfalls are especially full then. A lovely day trip leads to Chiapa de Corzo with its Moorish-inspired fountain, La Pila. In January the town celebrates the Fiesta Grande with the Parachicos, masked dancers who are part of UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage.