San Cristóbal de las Casas

Colorful houses with red tile roofs, cobblestone streets, and markets where Tzotzil and Tzeltal women in traditional dress sell wool and vegetables: San Cristóbal de las Casas sits high in the mountains of Chiapas and is one of the most popular stops on a trip through southern Mexico. Cool air, Indigenous culture, and great cafés are what make the town so appealing.

History of a Mountain Town

The Spanish founded the town in 1528 under the name Ciudad Real in the Jovel Valley. It bears its present name in honor of Bartolomé de las Casas, the Dominican friar and first bishop who championed the rights of the Indigenous population. San Cristóbal was the capital of Chiapas until 1892. On January 1, 1994, the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN) occupied the town and drew worldwide attention to the plight of Indigenous communities. Since then, San Cristóbal has also been a place of debate, art, and political engagement.

Sights in San Cristóbal de las Casas

The Templo de Santo Domingo, with its Baroque façade of pink stone, is the town's most magnificent building; in the former convent, the Centro Cultural de los Altos displays textiles from the region. A large crafts market spreads out in front of it. The yellow cathedral on the Zócalo glows especially in the evening. Pedestrian streets such as the Andador Real de Guadalupe and the Andador Eclesiástico connect the neighborhoods with cafés, shops, and restaurants. For a view over the rooftops, climb up to the Iglesia de Guadalupe or the Iglesia de San Cristóbal, which sit on hills above the town. The Museo del Ámbar showcases amber from Chiapas, while Na Bolom, a historic house, is dedicated to research on the Lacandon people.

Eating and Going Out

San Cristóbal is a café town: coffee from the highlands of Chiapas is roasted fresh here and served in many small spots. Regional cuisine includes tamales de chipilín, sopa de pan, butifarra, a local sausage, and pox, a corn-based spirit that is also used in ceremonies. The Mercado José Castillo Tielemans offers fruit, vegetables, and food stalls. Thanks to the many international visitors, the restaurant scene is diverse, and in the evenings bands play jazz, reggae, and son in bars and small cultural centers along the pedestrian streets.

Getting Around, When to Go, and Day Trips

The nearest airport is Tuxtla Gutiérrez (TGZ), about an hour away; buses and colectivos run regularly. You can explore the old town on foot. The best time to visit is between November and April; at an elevation of 2,200 meters (7,200 feet), nights can be frosty, so warm clothing is advisable. Day trips lead to San Juan Chamula, where rituals with candles and eggs take place on pine needles in a church without pews (photography inside is strictly forbidden), to Zinacantán with its weaving workshops, and to the Sumidero Canyon. In parts of Chiapas there are tensions and road blockades; check current advisories before traveling overland.