Playa del Carmen

Walk barefoot from breakfast to the beach, take the ferry to Cozumel at lunchtime, and stroll a pedestrian street full of lights in the evening: Playa del Carmen is the lively heart of the Riviera Maya. A vacation here combines Caribbean beaches, cenotes, and Maya sites with a city that has grown from a fishing village into a major city in just a few decades.

From Fishing Village to Resort Town

As recently as the 1970s, Playa del Carmen was a small village from which fishing boats crossed to the island of Cozumel. In Maya times, the area was a departure point for pilgrims traveling to the sanctuary of the goddess Ixchel on Cozumel; the small site of Xaman-Ha is a reminder of this. With the rise of Cancún, tourism began here as well. Today, several hundred thousand people live in Playa del Carmen, many of them newcomers from all over Mexico, Europe, and Latin America, and the city keeps growing. This mix shapes the atmosphere: cosmopolitan, multilingual, with a large community of expats and digital nomads.

Sights in Playa del Carmen

The centerpiece is Quinta Avenida, a pedestrian street several miles long that runs parallel to the beach, lined with shops, cafés, restaurants, and bars. At its southern end lies Parque Fundadores with the Portal Maya, a large bronze sculpture, and the plaza where the Voladores de Papantla perform their ritual: men who spin head-down on ropes from a tall pole. The beaches north of the center, such as Playa Mamitas, are wide and busy, while in the Playacar district to the south you'll find quieter stretches. The ruins of Xaman-Ha sit there among hotels and golf courses.

Going Out and Nightlife

In the evening, Playa del Carmen shows its second face. Calle 12 and the surrounding streets are the center of the nightlife, with clubs, rooftop bars, and beach spots where DJs play until morning. Things are calmer in the bars on Calle 38 and in the Gonzalo Guerrero neighborhood, where you can sample mezcal or hear live music. Carnival in February brings parades to Quinta Avenida. If you plan to party, keep an eye on your drinks and use only official taxis.

Eating in Playa del Carmen

The cuisine of the Yucatán Peninsula is well represented here: cochinita pibil, pork marinated in achiote and cooked in banana leaves, sopa de lima, and panuchos are among the classics. On the beach you'll find ceviche, pescado a la talla, and fish tacos. Away from Quinta Avenida, in the Colosio neighborhood or on Calle 30, there are simple eateries where locals eat and prices are much lower. The international scene is big: Italian, Argentine, and Asian restaurants are found everywhere, many run by immigrants. For breakfast, numerous cafés serve freshly squeezed juices, chilaquiles, and coffee from Chiapas, often with a view of the colorful bustle of the street.

Getting Around Playa del Carmen

The nearest major airport is Cancún (CUN), about 34 miles to the north; ADO buses run directly from the terminal to the center. Since late 2023, Tulum Airport (TQO) has also been in operation, and the Tren Maya line has a station on the edge of the city. Colectivos, small shared minibuses, connect Playa with Tulum, Puerto Morelos, and the cenotes along the coast. Ferries to Cozumel depart from the Muelle several times a day. In the city center, everything is within walking distance. As in the whole region, there is occasional crime related to the drug trade; tourists are rarely affected, but caution in nightclubs is advisable.

Best Time to Visit and Day Trips

The best time to visit is between December and April, when it is dry and sunny. June through November is hurricane season, and in summer sargassum seaweed can affect the beaches. Excursions lead to Cozumel for diving on reefs, to cenotes such as Dos Ojos or Jardín del Edén, to the Xcaret and Xel-Há parks, and to the Maya ruins of Tulum and Cobá. The Bacalar Lagoon, the Lagoon of Seven Colors, is a longer but worthwhile trip.