Yokosuka · 横須賀市

Step off the train at Yokosuka-Chūō Station and you'll soon smell the sea and occasionally hear the deep horn of a warship. A trip to Yokosuka takes you to the tip of the Miura Peninsula, where Japanese naval history, American influence, and quiet coastlines meet – ideal as a day trip from Tokyo or a relaxed short getaway.

From Fishing Village to Naval Port

In 1853, Commodore Matthew Perry anchored his "Black Ships" off Kurihama, in the south of what is now the city; a monument in Perry Park commemorates the moment that ended Japan's isolation. Not long after, the shogunate brought in the French engineer Léonce Verny, who began building a shipyard in 1865 – the foundation of the naval base. Today, Verny Park on the harbor is laid out with a French-inspired rose garden and looks directly onto the gray ships of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force and the U.S. 7th Fleet, which is homeported here.

Sights in Yokosuka

The best-known piece of history sits firmly set in concrete in Mikasa Park: the battleship Mikasa, Admiral Tōgō's flagship at the Battle of Tsushima in 1905. On deck and in the cabins, it's easy to see how cramped life aboard a warship was around 1900. From Mikasa Pier, small ferries run to Sarushima, the only natural island in Tokyo Bay, with tunnels and gun emplacements now overgrown with ferns. A harbor cruise takes you close to destroyers and submarines. To the east, Kannonzaki Lighthouse, built in 1869 as Japan's first Western-style lighthouse, marks the entrance to the bay; right next door is the Yokosuka Museum of Art, whose glass building opens toward the sea.

Eating in Yokosuka: Curry and Burgers

The Japanese navy traditionally served curry on Fridays so sailors wouldn't lose track of the day of the week on long voyages. Yokosuka has turned this into a small cult cuisine: Yokosuka Kaigun Curry is served at many restaurants with a salad and a glass of milk, just as the old recipe prescribes. Just as popular are the juicy Navy burgers, which found their way into the city via the U.S. base. Dobuita Street, once an entertainment district for sailors, is the best place to try them – and to shop for sukajan, the embroidered satin jackets that originated here after the war as souvenirs for American soldiers and are now considered a fashion classic.

Getting Around, Excursions, and Best Time to Visit

From Shinagawa Station, you can reach Yokosuka on the Keikyū Line in under an hour; alternatively, the JR Yokosuka Line runs via Yokohama and Kamakura. To the south, it's worth continuing on to the Miura Peninsula with the tuna port of Misaki and the cliffs at Jōgashima. The best times to visit are spring and fall, when the weather is mild and clear; in summer, beaches like Hashirimizu fill up, and on certain days the U.S. base opens its gates to visitors. In winter, clear air rewards you with views across the bay all the way to Mount Fuji.

Green Yokosuka and Evenings by the Harbor

Away from the navy, the city is surprisingly green. Kurihama Flower Park is a sea of poppies and nemophila in spring, while sage and cosmos bloom in fall. Tsukayama Park is home to the grave of William Adams, the English navigator who became an adviser to Tokugawa Ieyasu around 1600 and went down in history as Miura Anjin. In the evening, a stroll along the illuminated waterfront promenade at Verny Park is well worth it, when the lights of the ships reflect on the water. In the side streets off Dobuita Street, izakaya, American diners, and a few bars mix together, where sailors and locals sit side by side at the counter.