Iwaki · いわき市

When the coal mines closed, the miners' daughters taught their hometown to hula – and created a leisure resort that still draws visitors from all over Japan. A trip to Iwaki takes you to the Pacific coast of Fukushima, with hot springs, a large aquarium, and one of the region's most important fishing ports.

From Coal Country to Resort Town

For more than a hundred years, coal was mined in the Jōban coalfield around Iwaki, supplying Tokyo with energy. Mining came to an end in the 1960s, and the operating company put the hot water gushing out of the shafts to use for an idea that seemed crazy at the time: a Hawaiian resort in the middle of northeastern Japan. In 1966, what is now the Spa Resort Hawaiians opened, and the miners' daughters performed as hula dancers. Their story was told in the 2006 film "Hula Girls." Today the complex combines thermal pools, water slides, and evening dance shows.

Sights in Iwaki

In the port of Onahama stands the Aquamarine Fukushima aquarium, a glass building that shows where the cold Oyashio and warm Kuroshio currents meet off the coast; in one tunnel, schools of sardines swim over visitors' heads. Next door, the LaLa Mew harbor building has a market with fish and local specialties. The Shiramizu Amida Hall, dating from 1160, is a National Treasure, surrounded by a Pure Land–style pond garden that is especially beautiful when the leaves change color in fall. The Shioyazaki Lighthouse, on a cliff above the sea, became famous through a song by singer Misora Hibari and offers wide views along the coast.

Eating in Iwaki

The fish from the waters off Iwaki is considered especially good because warm and cold currents mix here. A local favorite is mehikari, a small deep-sea fish with large eyes, served fried or dried and grilled. In winter, ankō-nabe, a monkfish stew, is on the menu; in summer there is uni-no-kaiyaki, sea urchin baked in shells. Iwaki was hit by the tsunami in 2011; today the port and market are bustling again, and fishermen sell their catch under strict inspections.

Onsen and Excursions

The Yumoto district is one of Japan's oldest hot spring towns and was once a rest stop on the coastal road. Ryokan and public baths surround the train station, and a free foot bath invites you to take a break. The city's territory is huge, stretching from the Pacific deep into the mountains of the Abukuma Highlands, where gorges beckon hikers.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

On the Hitachi Limited Express, Iwaki is a little over two hours from Tokyo. The climate is mild for Tōhoku, with little snow in winter and cool summers. The best time to visit is from May to October, when beaches such as Nakoso and Usuiso are open. In spring, cherry trees bloom at the old Nakoso barrier, which was celebrated in classical poetry, and in fall the maples along the Natsui River turn color. If you stay at the Spa Resort, you can catch the shows in the evening and explore the coast the next day.