Discovering Des Moines: Golden Dome and Sculpture Park
Travel guide · editorialA dome covered in 23-karat gold leaf gleams above the Des Moines River valley, and down in the park, world-class works of art stand under the open sky. A trip to Des Moines reveals Iowa's capital as a surprisingly lively city with art, a farmers' market, and a legendary agricultural fair.
A Capital in Corn Country
Des Moines began in 1843 as a fort at the confluence of the Raccoon River and the Des Moines River and became the capital of Iowa in 1857. Coal, the railroad, and above all insurance made it grow; many insurance and financial companies are still headquartered here today. The city becomes politically interesting every four years, when the Iowa Caucuses kick off the presidential campaigns and candidates make the rounds of diners and event halls. Over the past few decades, the city has reinvented itself with renovated riverbanks and a vibrant downtown.
Things to See in Des Moines
The Iowa State Capitol, with its golden dome and a magnificent law library, can be toured for free. In downtown's Pappajohn Sculpture Park, you'll find works by artists such as Louise Bourgeois, Keith Haring, and Jaume Plensa. The Des Moines Art Center, with additions by I. M. Pei and Richard Meier, is among the most architecturally interesting museums in the Midwest. The East Village neighborhood at the foot of the Capitol offers boutiques and galleries. The Principal Riverwalk follows the river with bridges and plazas, and the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden sits under a glass dome. Salisbury House is a mansion built in the style of an English country estate.
Eating in Des Moines: Farmers' Market and State Fair
On Saturdays from May to October, the Downtown Farmers' Market fills numerous city blocks with stands run by farmers, bakers, and food vendors. Iowa classics include the pork tenderloin sandwich, sweet corn in summer, and the Maid-Rite, a loose-meat ground beef sandwich. Around the East Village, Court Avenue, and Ingersoll Avenue, you'll find restaurants, breweries, and bars. The highlight of the year is the Iowa State Fair in August, a huge agricultural fair with its butter cow sculpture, livestock competitions, and fried treats on a stick.
Neighborhoods and Sports
The East Village is the creative neighborhood, with boutiques and cafés, while the Court Avenue District, with its bars and restaurants, is the nightlife hub. Ingersoll and Beaverdale to the west offer neighborhood shops and eateries. At Principal Park, at the confluence of the Raccoon River, the Iowa Cubs play minor league baseball, and Drake University hosts the Drake Relays in April, a track-and-field meet with a long tradition.
Getting Around Des Moines and the Best Time to Visit
Des Moines International Airport lies southwest of the city and has connections to major hubs. DART buses serve the metro area, and a network of bike trails on former rail lines leads far into the surrounding countryside, for example across the High Trestle Trail Bridge, which is lit in blue at night. The best time to visit is from May to September; winters are cold and windy. Day trips lead to the Bridges of Madison County, known from the novel and film, and to the Amana Colonies, founded by German Pietists.