Brighton

In the middle of an English seaside resort stands a palace with onion domes and minarets, as if someone had carried it over from India. The Royal Pavilion is the eccentric heart of Brighton – and a city break in Brighton pairs it with a pebble beach, a pier, winding alleyways, and a city proud of its openness.

From Fishing Village to Royal Seaside Resort

In the 18th century, a physician recommended sea bathing as a cure, and the fishing village of Brighthelmstone became fashionable. The decisive boost came from the Prince Regent, later King George IV, who threw his parties here and had John Nash build the Royal Pavilion in the Indian style. From 1841, the railway from London brought the crowds, and Brighton became the capital's weekend destination. To this day, the city attracts artists, students, and free spirits; it is considered the unofficial LGBTQ+ capital of Britain and has grown together with neighboring Hove to form a single city.

Sights in Brighton

Inside, the Royal Pavilion is even more magnificent than outside: dragons, cast-iron palm trees, and huge chandeliers shaped like lotus blossoms adorn the Banqueting Room and the Music Room. The gardens in front are open to the public. Brighton Palace Pier juts out into the sea with arcades, rides, and fish-and-chips stands, while all that remains of the West Pier is a rusty skeleton standing in the water. Next to it rises the British Airways i360, a slender observation tower where a glass pod ascends to 138 meters (453 feet). On the beachfront runs Volk’s Electric Railway, the oldest still-operating electric railway in the world, dating from 1883.

The Lanes, North Laine, and Kemptown

The Lanes, a labyrinth of narrow alleyways dating from the fishing village era, are full of jewelry shops, antiques dealers, and pubs. To the north lies North Laine, with independent boutiques, vintage shops, record stores, and cafés, a neighborhood best explored by wandering without a destination. Kemptown to the east is the center of the queer scene, with bars and clubs along St James’s Street and Regency houses by the sea. Hove to the west is quieter, with wide promenades and colorful beach huts. To the north lies Preston Park with a rose garden.

Eating, Going Out, and Festivals

Brighton has one of the highest concentrations of vegetarian and vegan restaurants in the UK, and the alleyways offer cuisines from all over the world. On the beach you can get fish and chips or fresh seafood, and bars and clubs have set up in the arches beneath the promenade. In May, the Brighton Festival and the Brighton Fringe take place, one of England’s largest cultural festivals, and in early August the city celebrates with Brighton Pride, one of the country’s biggest Pride parades.

Getting There, Excursions, and Best Time to Visit

London Gatwick Airport is about 30 minutes away by train, and London Victoria takes roughly an hour. The best time to visit is from May to September. Excursions lead to the white chalk cliffs of the Seven Sisters, to South Downs National Park, and to the village of Rottingdean.