Kyiv

Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, sits on green hills above the Dnipro River and is one of the oldest cities in Eastern Europe. Because of Russia's war of aggression, a travel warning is currently in effect for Ukraine, so travel to Kyiv is possible only to a limited extent. This portrait shows what makes the city special – and what visitors can expect once the situation allows it again.

A City of Hills and Islands

Historic Kyiv lies on the high right bank of the Dnipro, where steep, park-covered slopes drop down to the river. Opposite, on the flat left bank, postwar residential neighborhoods stretch out. In between are islands such as Trukhanov Island, with beaches and woods, which can be reached by a pedestrian bridge. Few European capitals have this much greenery: chestnut trees line Khreshchatyk, the grand boulevard in the center, and the chestnut bloom in May is a symbol of the city.

History and Culture

From the 9th to the 13th century, Kyiv was the center of Kyivan Rus, a powerful realm whose grand prince Volodymyr adopted Christianity in 988. After the Mongol invasion of 1240, the city lost importance and later belonged to Lithuania, Poland, and the Russian Empire. In the 20th century it experienced revolution, famine, German occupation, and the Babyn Yar massacre, in which more than 33,000 Jews were murdered in 1941. Since 1991, Kyiv has been the capital of independent Ukraine. Maidan Nezalezhnosti, Independence Square, was the scene of major protests for democracy and closer ties with Europe in 2004 and 2013–14.

Sights in Kyiv

St. Sophia Cathedral, dating from the 11th century with its mosaics and frescoes, and the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra, the Cave Monastery, are together a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the underground passages of the Lavra, monks rest in glass coffins, while above them the golden domes of the Dormition Cathedral gleam. Other sights in Kyiv include the blue St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery, the Golden Gate, a reconstructed medieval city gate, and Andriyivskyi Descent, a cobblestone street lined with artists' stalls that leads down into the old neighborhood of Podil. The writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived there, and his house is now a museum. Since 2023, the Motherland Monument above the Dnipro has carried the Ukrainian trident instead of the Soviet coat of arms.

Less well known but worthwhile are the National Art Museum with icons and works of Ukrainian modernism, the Hryshko National Botanical Garden with views of the Lavra, the Vydubychi Monastery complex on the Dnipro, and Mariinskyi Palace next to the parliament building. The National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War at the foot of the Motherland Monument now also features an exhibition on the current war. At markets such as Bessarabska Market in the center, you can buy spices, honey, and pickled vegetables.

Neighborhoods and Daily Life

Podil is the old merchants' quarter by the river, with pubs, cafés, and Kontraktova Square. Students live around the university and the Botanical Garden, and before the war a young scene had developed in the former industrial area around the Art Zavod Platforma cultural center. Theaters, the opera, and concerts have continued operating even during the war, often pausing for air raid alerts. The metro, with its deep-lying stations – Arsenalna is among the deepest in the world – serves as a shelter during attacks.

Food and Drink

Borscht, the red beet soup with sour cream, whose Ukrainian preparation has been on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage since 2022, is available everywhere. It is served with pampushky, garlic rolls, and varenyky, filled dumplings. Chicken Kyiv, stuffed chicken with herb butter, and the Kyiv cake with meringue and hazelnuts carry the city's name. A distinct coffee culture has developed in the cafés.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

Civil air traffic over Ukraine has been suspended since February 2022; Boryspil Airport is closed. Kyiv can currently be reached mainly by overnight train from Poland, for example from Przemyśl or Chełm. Before traveling, you should check the latest advisories from the German Federal Foreign Office, as air attacks on the city continue to occur. In more peaceful times, the best time to visit is between May and September, when the chestnuts bloom and people swim in the Dnipro.