Novi Sad · Нови Сад

On the clock tower of Petrovaradin Fortress above the Danube, the hands are reversed: the short one shows the minutes and the long one the hours, so that boatmen could read it from afar. Novi Sad, the capital of Vojvodina, is more relaxed than Belgrade, with Habsburg flair, a colorful mix of residents, and one of Europe's biggest music festivals. A trip to Novi Sad combines culture, the Danube, and the good life on the Pannonian Plain.

A City on a Border River

Novi Sad was founded in the late 17th century across the river from Petrovaradin Fortress, which the Habsburgs expanded into a bulwark against the Ottoman Empire. Serbian merchants and craftsmen settled here, and the city became the cultural center of the Serbs in the Habsburg Monarchy, the "Serbian Athens." Hungarians, Slovaks, Rusyns, Croats, and Romanians still live here today, and Vojvodina has several official languages. In 1999, NATO bombs destroyed all of the Danube bridges. In 2022, Novi Sad was a European Capital of Culture. After the collapse of the railway station canopy in November 2024, which killed 16 people, the city became the starting point of nationwide protests.

Sights in Novi Sad

The Petrovaradin Fortress on the right bank of the Danube is one of the largest fortresses in Europe, with a network of underground passages that you can visit on guided tours. From its walls you look out over the city and the Danube. In the center lies Freedom Square, Trg Slobode, with the neo-Gothic city hall and the Catholic Name of Mary Church. The pedestrian zone Zmaj Jovina Street and Dunavska Street, lined with cafés, lead to Danube Park. The Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. George and the synagogue, an Art Nouveau building that now serves as a concert hall, reflect the city's religious diversity. The Matica Srpska, the oldest Serbian cultural institution, holds a significant gallery.

Exit Festival and Nightlife

Every July the fortress turns into a giant stage: the Exit Festival, founded in 2000 as a student protest against the regime of Slobodan Milošević, draws music fans from all over Europe. The organizers have, however, announced that starting in 2026 the festival will no longer be held in Serbia. Otherwise, too, Novi Sad is a lively university town with bars in the old town and beach bars on the Štrand, the city's Danube beach.

Food and Wine

The cuisine of Vojvodina is shaped by Hungary and Austria: goulash, Riblja čorba (a fish soup made with Danube fish), strudel with poppy seeds or walnuts, and schnitzel. In the vineyards of Fruška Gora and in Sremski Karlovci, white wines and the sweet dessert wine Bermet are produced. Markets offer paprika, cheese, and cured meats from the region.

Getting Around and Best Time to Visit

The nearest airport is Belgrade, about 50 miles (80 km) away. An express train connects the two cities in around 40 minutes. Buses run within the city, and the center is easy to explore on foot. The best time to visit is May through September. Excursions lead to Sremski Karlovci with its Baroque buildings and wine cellars, to Fruška Gora National Park with its Orthodox monasteries, and to the Danube, where you can cycle along the Danube Cycle Path. A vacation in Novi Sad combines well with Belgrade; thanks to the express train, a day trip to the capital is also easy.