The Hague · Den Haag

By tram, you can get from the parliamentary district to the North Sea beach in a quarter of an hour – hardly any seat of government in Europe lies so close to the sea. A city trip to The Hague combines the home of the government, the king, and international courts with Vermeer's "Girl with a Pearl Earring," elegant avenues, and the seaside resort of Scheveningen.

The Counts' Village

The Hague grew up in the 13th century around a hunting lodge of the Counts of Holland, which became the Binnenhof. Because the cities of the Republic could not agree on a capital, the place officially remained a "village" without town rights for a long time, even though it was where the government sat. To this day, Amsterdam is the capital, but The Hague is the seat of parliament, the government, and King Willem-Alexander, who works at Noordeinde Palace. The first Hague Peace Conference took place here in 1899; since then, the city has established itself as a center of international law, with the International Court of Justice, the International Criminal Court, and numerous other organizations.

Sights in The Hague

The Binnenhof with its medieval Hall of Knights is the political heart of the country; the building complex is undergoing extensive renovation through the end of the 2020s, and parliament is meeting in temporary quarters. Right next door is the Mauritshuis, a small, exquisite museum with Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring, his "View of Delft," and Rembrandt's "The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Tulp." The Kunstmuseum Den Haag holds the largest Mondrian collection in the world, including "Victory Boogie Woogie." At Escher in Het Paleis, a former winter palace of the queen, the optical illusions of M. C. Escher will amaze you. The Peace Palace, home of the International Court of Justice, can be explored from the outside and in the visitor center. Madurodam shows the Netherlands in miniature.

Neighborhoods: Centrum, Zeeheldenkwartier, and Scheveningen

The Centrum, with the Plein, the Hofvijver pond, and the shopping streets around the Grote Marktstraat, forms the core. The Zeeheldenkwartier and the area around Denneweg and Frederikstraat offer antiques shops, cafés, and Art Nouveau houses. In the Segbroek district and in the green Haagse Hout with the Haagse Bos, one of Europe's oldest city forests, life is quieter. Scheveningen is the seaside resort with its pier, Ferris wheel, and the magnificent Kurhaus of 1885; fishing cutters and fish restaurants line the harbor of Scheveningen. Farther south, Loosduinen and Kijkduin offer a quieter dune coastline.

Eating and Going Out in The Hague

At the harbor of Scheveningen, herring is the thing: in June, Vlaggetjesdag celebrates the new Hollandse Nieuwe, and the classic way to eat it is with onions and pickles, held by the tail. The Hague has a long Indonesian tradition thanks to returnees from the former colony, which is why the rijsttafel and toko shops here are especially good. Around the Plein and the Grote Markt, politicians, diplomats, and students meet in pubs and bars in the evening. Chinatown on Wagenstraat is small but lively. On the beach at Scheveningen, numerous beach pavilions open in summer with deck chairs and sunsets over the North Sea.

Green Lungs and Dunes

The Hague is surprisingly green. The Haagse Bos reaches almost to Centraal Station, and thousands of roses bloom in the Westbroekpark in summer. The Japanese Garden in Clingendael Park opens only for a few weeks in spring and autumn. Between Scheveningen and Kijkduin, dunes stretch out with bike and hiking trails, and in the Westduinpark cattle graze as landscape managers. The Panorama Mesdag, a huge circular painting from 1881, shows Scheveningen as it looked back then – an unusual experience before you head to the beach yourself.

Getting Around The Hague and the Best Time to Visit

Schiphol Airport can be reached by train in about 30 minutes, and the smaller Rotterdam The Hague Airport is even closer. The Hague has two major train stations, Centraal and Hollands Spoor. Trams and RandstadRail lines take you to Scheveningen, Delft, and Zoetermeer; bike rental is widely available. The best time to visit is from May to September, with beach weather, festivals, and outdoor terraces. Day trips lead to Delft with its market square and blue porcelain, to Leiden, Rotterdam, the Keukenhof in spring, and the dune landscapes of Meijendel.