San Miguel de Allende

Cobblestone streets, ochre facades, and a pink neo-Gothic church: San Miguel de Allende is one of the most beautiful colonial cities in Mexico. A vacation in San Miguel de Allende combines history, galleries, and outstanding food in the mild climate of the highlands.

Cradle of Independence

The Franciscan friar Juan de San Miguel founded the town in 1542, and it later became a prosperous stop on the Silver Route between Zacatecas and Mexico City. Ignacio Allende, one of the leaders of the 1810 independence struggle, was born here; the town was renamed in his honor in 1826. His birthplace on the main square is now a museum. After decades of decline, artists discovered the town in the 1930s and 1940s, and after World War II many US veterans came to study at its art schools. A large international community has lived here ever since. In 2008, UNESCO added the town to the World Heritage List together with the nearby Sanctuary of Atotonilco.

Sights in San Miguel de Allende

The focal point is the Jardín, the main square shaded by laurel trees. Towering above it is the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, whose facade is said to have been designed in the 19th century by a local stonemason working from postcards of European cathedrals. In the lanes around it you'll find the Church of San Francisco, the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, and the Bellas Artes cultural center with an unfinished mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros. The Instituto Allende and the Fábrica La Aurora, a former textile factory filled with studios and galleries, showcase the lively art scene. For views, climb up to the Mirador; on the edge of town, the El Charco del Ingenio botanical garden, with its cacti and canyon, invites you to take a stroll.

Eating, Drinking, and Going Out

The restaurants in San Miguel de Allende range from taco stands at the Mercado Ignacio Ramírez to fine dining featuring ingredients from the Bajío. Be sure to try enchiladas mineras, gorditas, and fiambre, along with wine from the surrounding vineyards, which have grown considerably in recent years. In the evening, people gather on rooftop terraces overlooking the illuminated Parroquia, in mezcal bars, and at live music venues. There are festivals almost every week: highlights include the Fiestas de San Miguel Arcángel at the end of September with processions and fireworks, Semana Santa, and the Día de Muertos.

Crafts and Markets

San Miguel is a center of traditional crafts. At the Mercado de Artesanías, a long alley below the town center, vendors sell tin mirrors, brass lanterns, papier-mâché figures, and embroidered textiles. Galleries on Calle Zacateros and around the Fábrica La Aurora show contemporary painting and design. If you'd like to get creative yourself, you'll find classes in painting, silversmithing, Spanish, or cooking. On Tuesdays, the big weekly market takes place on the edge of town, offering everything from vegetables to tools to secondhand clothing, a contrast to the elegant boutiques of the historic center.

Getting There, Excursions, and Best Time to Visit

The nearest airports are León/Bajío and Querétaro, each about one to one and a half hours away; buses run to Querétaro, Guanajuato, and Mexico City. In town, you get around on foot, and sturdy shoes are a good idea on the cobblestones. Worthwhile excursions lead to Atotonilco with its murals, to the hot springs in the area, and to Guanajuato. The best time to visit is between October and April, with sunny days and cool nights; May is the warmest month, and in summer there are afternoon rain showers.