Puerto Vallarta

A church tower topped with a crown, cobblestone streets hugging green hillsides, and in front of it all, one of Mexico's largest bays: Puerto Vallarta is the best-known beach destination on Jalisco's Pacific coast. A vacation here combines beaches, nightlife, and excursions into the jungle and to fishing villages.

From Fishing Village to Movie Star

Until the mid-20th century, Puerto Vallarta was a remote port that shipped silver down from the mountains. The town became famous in 1963, when John Huston filmed "The Night of the Iguana" here with Richard Burton; Elizabeth Taylor accompanied him, and their romance drew the world's press. An airport, hotels, and cruise ships followed. Despite the growth, the town center, with its white houses and red-tile roofs, has kept a great deal of its charm.

Sights in Puerto Vallarta

The Malecón is the heart of the city: a waterfront promenade with bronze sculptures, street performers, and views of the sunset. Above the center rises the church of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, its tower topped with a crown said to recall the crown of Empress Charlotte. South of the Río Cuale lies the Zona Romántica, with cafés, galleries, and Playa de los Muertos. On Isla Río Cuale, an island in the river, you'll find crafts markets and restaurants set among greenery. In December, daily processions in honor of Guadalupe make their way to the church, accompanied by music, dancers, and groups in traditional dress who come from neighborhoods, hotels, and businesses. In the Gringo Gulch neighborhood above the river stand the villas where Taylor and Burton lived, linked by a bridge over the alley.

Going Out and Nightlife

The nightlife is varied. Bars and clubs line the Malecón, while the Zona Romántica has small venues, cocktail bars, and live music. Puerto Vallarta is considered one of Latin America's most important LGBTQ-friendly destinations, with bars, beach clubs, and a Pride festival in May. If you prefer a quieter evening, enjoy a glass of raicilla, a regional agave spirit from the Sierra.

Eating in Puerto Vallarta

The specialty is pescado zarandeado, split fish marinated and grilled over charcoal. Ceviche, aguachile, and marlin tacos are available at many stands. On the beach, vendors sell grilled fish skewers, and downtown has taquerías that stay open late. The dining scene ranges from simple eateries to upscale cuisine with ocean views. Every November, the Festival Gourmet International shows just how diverse the bay's food scene has become. At the farmers market in the Zona Romántica, you can pick up coffee from the Sierra, honey, cheese, and pastries. For breakfast, a plate of chilaquiles or a licuado made with tropical fruit is worth trying.

Getting Around, When to Go, and Excursions

Gustavo Díaz Ordaz Airport (PVR) lies north of the city and also has direct flights from North America. City buses connect the neighborhoods, and water taxis run to beaches that can only be reached by sea, such as Yelapa and Las Ánimas. The best time to visit is between November and April; from December through March, you can watch humpback whales in the bay. Excursions lead to the Marietas Islands, to Sayulita, and to the mountain village of San Sebastián del Oeste. Puerto Vallarta is considered relatively safe for tourists, but the state of Jalisco does have regions affected by cartel violence.