Mexicali

In Mexicali, you're more likely to be greeted with chow mein than with tacos – one of many surprises in the capital of Baja California. For a trip to the California border, the desert city offers Chinese-Mexican cuisine, border culture and excursions to oases and crater landscapes.

A City Built on Desert and Irrigation

The name combines "México" and "California," as does that of its sister city Calexico on the U.S. side. Mexicali was founded in the early 20th century, when canals diverted water from the Colorado River into the Mexicali Valley and cotton fields sprang up. Many of the workers came from China, and when the plantations needed fewer laborers, many stayed and opened shops and restaurants. This is how one of the largest Chinese communities in Mexico came to be. In 1952, Mexicali became the capital of the new state of Baja California; today industry and maquiladoras shape the economy. Agriculture still plays a major role as well: wheat, asparagus, vegetables and forage crops are grown in the Mexicali Valley, irrigated by a dense network of canals.

Sights in Mexicali

The historic center lies right on the border. This is home to La Chinesca, the Chinese quarter with restaurants, shops and a network of old cellars and tunnels surrounded by legends – some passages are said to have been used for smuggling and gambling during Prohibition. The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe is the religious center, and the Bosque de la Ciudad is a large park with a zoo and a lake. The Centro Estatal de las Artes cultural center and the UABC's Museo Universitario offer insight into history, art and the culture of the Cucapá, the Indigenous people of the Colorado River Delta.

Eating in Mexicali

Mexicali is said to have more Chinese restaurants per capita than any other city in the country. The cuisine is a mix all its own: chop suey, fried rice and sweet-and-sour dishes, often served with tortillas and spicy salsas. The city is also known for its carne asada, since the beef from the north is of high quality. At lunchtime there are carne asada tacos and Sonoran hot dogs, and at night taquerías stay open late. Craft beer from Baja California and wines from the nearby Valle de Guadalupe round out the offerings.

Going Out and Daily Life

The nightlife is concentrated in the bars and breweries downtown and along Bulevar Lázaro Cárdenas. In summer, life moves almost entirely indoors into air-conditioned spaces and into the late evening, because during the day it is simply too hot. In the fall, the city celebrates the Fiestas del Sol, a big folk festival with concerts and a fair that commemorates its founding. The atmosphere is pragmatic and border-oriented: many residents commute to Calexico every day. If you're out in the evening, you'll find brewhouses with patios in the newer neighborhoods to the east, where you can enjoy the cooling desert air after sunset. Baja California's craft beer scene has grown considerably in recent years, and Mexicali has several breweries of its own with local varieties.

Getting Around Mexicali

General Rodolfo Sánchez Taboada Airport (MXL) is located east of the city, with flights to Mexico City and Guadalajara. Many visitors arrive across the border from California; from San Diego Airport it's a good two-hour drive. In the city, taxis and ride-hailing services are the norm, while public buses see little tourist use. Like the rest of Baja California, the border region has problems with crime; visitors are best off staying in busy areas during the day and using registered vehicles.

Best Time to Visit and Day Trips

Mexicali is one of the hottest cities in Mexico, and temperatures above 113°F are not unusual in summer. The best time to visit is therefore between November and March. Worthwhile excursions include the Cañón de Guadalupe with its hot springs and palm trees, the Laguna Salada and the Sierra de Juárez. San Felipe on the Gulf of California is about a two-hour drive away – a popular destination for swimming and seafood, especially in the winter months.