Matamoros

Where the Río Bravo (Rio Grande) flows into the Gulf of Mexico, you'll find Matamoros, directly across from Brownsville, Texas. The border city in Tamaulipas is more of a transit and industrial hub than a classic travel destination, but it has a historic old town, its own border cuisine, and a long beach – though the security situation needs to be considered on any trip.

History on the Río Bravo

Matamoros was founded as a settlement in the 18th century and received its current name in 1826, in honor of the independence fighter Mariano Matamoros. The fighting of the Mexican-American War began here in 1846, when US troops reached the river. During the American Civil War, the city boomed because the Confederates exported their cotton through Matamoros and the nearby port of Bagdad to get around the Union blockade. For its repeated defense, the city bears the title "heroica, leal e invicta" (heroic, loyal, and unconquered). Today, maquiladoras and border trade shape the economy.

Sights in Matamoros

The Casamata, a small 19th-century fort, now houses a museum on the city's history. Around Plaza Hidalgo you'll find the Cathedral of Nuestra Señora del Refugio and historic buildings. The Teatro de la Reforma, a neoclassical theater, has been restored and serves as a cultural venue for concerts, plays, and the Festival Internacional Tamaulipas. The Mercado Juárez in the center is a traditional place to shop for handicrafts, leather goods, and souvenirs. About 35 kilometers (22 miles) to the east stretches Playa Bagdad, a long sandy beach on the Gulf where locals swim and eat fish on weekends. The name recalls the port of the same name from the Civil War era, which was destroyed by storms. In the winter months, migratory birds rest here, and along some stretches sea turtles lay their eggs.

Eating in Matamoros

The cuisine is typical of the Northeast: carne asada, cabrito, and flour tortillas. Local specialties include tacos de mariscos and jaibas rellenas, stuffed crabs served along the coast. Tacos de barbacoa, eaten on Sunday mornings, are also famous. Also typical of Tamaulipas are gorditas and pan de campo, a bread baked in the embers that is part of family celebrations. In the center there are simple eateries and taquerías that stay open into the evening, and at Playa Bagdad, beachfront restaurants serve fried fish, shrimp, and oysters from the Laguna Madre.

Getting Around, Safety, and When to Go

The small General Servando Canales Airport (MAM) has connections to Mexico City; many travelers use Brownsville Airport on the US side. Several border bridges connect the two cities. In town, taxis and buses are the usual way to get around. Many countries have issued travel advisories for the state of Tamaulipas because of cartel violence and kidnappings. If you have to travel there, you should move around only during the day, avoid overland drives, stick to busy areas, and heed current advisories. The best time to visit is between November and April, when it is less hot and humid; in late summer, hurricanes threaten the Gulf. In winter, cold north winds occasionally bring crisp days that make a stroll through the center especially pleasant.