Ensenada

Battered, fried fish in the morning, wine tastings in the Valle de Guadalupe in the afternoon, a sunset over the Pacific in the evening: Ensenada is the culinary destination of Baja California. A trip to this port city combines sea, wine, and nature with a laid-back way of life.

History of a Port City

Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo explored Todos Santos Bay in 1542, but no settlement arose until the 19th century, when gold was discovered in the mountains. At the end of that century, Ensenada briefly served as the capital of the Baja California territory. In the 1930s, the casino at the Hotel Riviera del Pacífico drew Hollywood stars until gambling was banned. Today Ensenada is an important fishing and cruise port, where large ships from California dock almost daily. The city is also a university and research hub, with institutes for marine biology and astronomy; UNAM operates an observatory in the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir.

Sights in Ensenada

The Centro Cultural Riviera, the former casino hotel built in Spanish Colonial style, is the city's most beautiful building, with gardens and salons. A huge Mexican flag flutters along the Malecón, and the fish market sits right next to it. About 30 kilometers (19 miles) to the south, at La Bufadora, seawater shoots high into the air through a rock fissure, making it one of the largest marine geysers in North America. The beaches around the bay, such as Playa Hermosa, invite you to stroll and surf. Well-known surf spots like San Miguel lie north of the city, and farther out to sea, surfers will find the big waves of the Islas de Todos Santos.

Eating in Ensenada

Ensenada is considered the home of the fish taco: pieces of fish or shrimp in beer batter, fried and served with cabbage, cream sauce, and salsa. At the Mercado Negro, the fish market, you'll find tostadas with sea urchin, oysters, and ceviche. Baja Med cuisine combines Mexican ingredients with Mediterranean influences and has given rise to its own restaurant scene in the region. The Cantina Hussong's downtown, founded in 1892, is said to be one of the birthplaces of the margarita; the wooden bar with sawdust on the floor has barely changed in decades.

Wine and Nightlife

Northeast of the city lies the Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico's best-known wine region, with dozens of wineries, restaurants, and places to stay. In August, the Fiestas de la Vendimia celebrate the harvest with concerts and tastings. In the city itself, craft breweries and bars along Avenida López Mateos provide the nightlife. Ensenada is also known for racing, including the Baja 1000, an off-road desert race.

Getting Around, When to Go, and Excursions

The nearest major airport is Tijuana (TIJ), about 110 kilometers (68 miles) to the north; the coastal road there offers beautiful views. In the city, taxis and buses are the usual way to get around; for the Valle de Guadalupe you'll need a car or a tour. The climate is mild year-round; the warmest and driest time is between May and October, while from December to April gray whales migrate past the coast and can be observed up close on boat tours. Excursions lead to Sierra de San Pedro Mártir National Park. Baja California has problems with crime; the city center and tourist areas are mostly calm, but it's still wise to be cautious at night.