Chilpancingo

Between Acapulco and Mexico City, Chilpancingo de los Bravo, the capital of Guerrero, sits in a valley of the Sierra Madre del Sur. A trip to Chilpancingo is an encounter with the story of independence, pozole, and colorful dances.

Where Mexico's Independence Was Declared

In 1813, José María Morelos convened the Congreso de Anáhuac here, the country's first constituent assembly. In his document "Sentimientos de la Nación," he called for independence from Spain, the abolition of slavery, and equal rights, a foundational text of Mexican history. The epithet "de los Bravo" honors the Bravo brothers, independence fighters from the region. Chilpancingo has been the state capital since 1870 and is home to the Universidad Autónoma de Guerrero, whose students shape the look and feel of the city.

Sights in Chilpancingo

On the Zócalo stands the Catedral de Santa María de la Asunción, where the Congreso met. Next door, the Museo Regional de Guerrero, housed in the former government palace, uses murals to trace the state's history from the Olmecs to the Revolution. The Alameda Granados Maldonado and the old San Mateo neighborhood invite leisurely strolls. In the surrounding area you'll find the archaeological site of Teopantecuanitlán with its Olmec reliefs and the Grutas de Juxtlahuaca, a limestone cave with some of the oldest cave paintings in Mesoamerica, which can only be visited with a guide.

Eating in Chilpancingo: Jueves Pozolero

Guerrero is the home of pozole verde, a soup made from hominy, pork, and a green sauce of pumpkin seeds and tomatillos. Traditionally it is eaten on Thursday, the "Jueves Pozolero," with chicharrón, avocado, oregano, onions, and a glass of mezcal. Chilate, a cacao-and-rice drink, relleno de puerco, and tamales nejos are also typical. Restaurants in Chilpancingo are mostly family-run, and at the Mercado Baltazar R. Leyva you'll find food stalls serving regional dishes.

Day Trips into the Highlands

Chilpancingo lies in the middle of a varied landscape. To the north, the road runs through the Cañón del Zopilote, a deep, dry canyon, to Iguala, where the Plan of Iguala sealed independence in 1821 and the Mexican flag was first displayed. About two hours to the north lies Taxco, with its white houses and silver workshops. To the east you reach Chilapa, known for its large Sunday market and palm-fiber handicrafts. South of the city, roads wind through the forests of the Sierra Madre del Sur, where small villages distill mezcal from wild agaves.

Festivals, Safety, and the Best Time to Visit

The highlight of the year is the Feria de San Mateo, Navidad y Año Nuevo from mid-December to early January, with parades, folk dances such as the Tlacololeros dance, and a fairground. Chilpancingo lies on the Mexico City–Acapulco highway; the nearest airports are Acapulco and Mexico City, and long-distance buses run several times an hour. Guerrero is heavily affected by organized crime, and violence and road blockades also occur in Chilpancingo. If you travel here, check current official travel advisories, drive overland only during the day, and seek advice from locals. The climate is mild year-round; the dry season from November to April is the best time to go.