Vilnius County

A vacation in Vilnius County takes you to a capital with one of the largest surviving old towns in Eastern Europe, complete with baroque church towers, courtyards, and a self-proclaimed artists' republic. Just half an hour away lies Trakai, with its island castle surrounded by water. The county covers southeastern Lithuania, with lakes, forests, and a multilingual history.

Landscape and Location

The county stretches from the rolling hills around Vilnius to the border with Belarus. The Neris River flows through the capital, which is surrounded by wooded hills. Around Trakai you'll find more than 30 lakes linked by channels, forming a national park. To the north lie Ukmergė and Širvintos, to the south the rural district of Šalčininkai. About half the area is forested, and in summer plenty of swimming spots invite you to take a dip.

Sights in Vilnius County

Vilnius's Old Town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994. Around the cathedral, with its freestanding bell tower, you'll find a string of baroque churches, including St. Anne's in red-brick Gothic style, Sts. Peter and Paul with more than 2,000 stucco figures, and the Church of the Holy Spirit. The Gate of Dawn, Aušros vartai, houses a revered icon of the Virgin Mary. From Gediminas Tower on Castle Hill you look out over the rooftops, while the reconstructed Palace of the Grand Dukes tells the story of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Užupis, across the Vilnia River, declared itself a republic in 1997, with its own constitution displayed on a wall in many languages. In the Middle Ages Trakai was the residence of the Grand Dukes; you reach the Gothic red-brick island castle in Lake Galvė via wooden bridges. Away from the Old Town, the MO Museum of modern art, a building by Daniel Libeskind, and Bernardine Garden by the river are worth a visit. Kernavė, about 35 kilometers northwest, was an early capital of the Lithuanians; its hillforts above the Neris are also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the setting of a festival of experimental archaeology in July.

Culture and History

For centuries Vilnius was the capital of a vast realm that stretched from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea, and it was known as the "Jerusalem of the North" because it was home to a major center of Jewish learning. The Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights in the former KGB building documents the Soviet occupation, while the Paneriai Memorial commemorates the Holocaust. In Trakai, Karaites, a small Turkic-speaking community, still live today; their colorful wooden houses show three windows to the street.

Food and Drink

Cepelinai, large potato dumplings stuffed with meat and served with a bacon and sour cream sauce, are the national dish. Šaltibarščiai, a bright pink cold beet soup, is a summer favorite. The Karaites in Trakai bake kibinai, pastries filled with mutton or chicken. In Vilnius, craft beer bars, cafés, and a young restaurant scene have taken hold.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

Vilnius Airport is just a few kilometers from the center and is served from many European cities. Long-distance buses and trains connect the city with Kaunas, Riga, and Warsaw; buses and trains reach Trakai in about half an hour. The best time to visit is May through September, with its long evenings, while in December the Christmas market on Cathedral Square is a draw.