Toyohashi · 豊橋市

Green streetcars rumble through the city center, and in summer men hold blazing bamboo tubes in their hands, shooting sparks several yards into the air. Toyohashi, in the east of Aichi Prefecture, is not a classic tourist destination, but for a trip off the beaten path, the city offers plenty of everyday Japan, good food, and quick access to the Pacific coast.

Castle Park and City History

Toyohashi grew up as a castle town on the old Tōkaidō route and was one of the post stations between Edo and Kyoto. Of Yoshida Castle, a reconstructed corner turret survives on the Toyogawa River, surrounded by the sprawling Toyohashi Park. The Toyohashi Museum of Art and History is also here, telling the story of the region from the Stone Age to the silk industry. In spring the cherry trees bloom in the park, and on weekends families gather for picnics beneath the old walls.

Things to See in Toyohashi

The most charming way to get around is the Toyohashi Railroad streetcar, one of the few remaining tram lines in Japan. It runs from the train station to the beaches at Undōkōen and Akaiwaguchi, and in winter special cars operate with oden and beer on board. Families head to Nonhoi Zoo and Botanical Park, which combines animal enclosures, greenhouses, a natural history museum with dinosaur skeletons, and a small amusement park. If you're looking for the sea, head to Omotehama Beach on the Pacific, where sea turtles lay their eggs between May and August and surfers wait for the waves.

Food in Toyohashi and Festivals

Toyohashi is a stronghold of chikuwa, grilled fish-paste rolls that have been made here since the Edo period. A local specialty is Toyohashi curry udon: at the bottom of the bowl lies a layer of rice and yellow yamaimo paste, topped with noodles in a rich curry broth. In the alleys around the station you'll find izakaya serving eel from neighboring Mikawa and fresh fish from Atsumi Bay. The most important festival is the Gion Festival at Yoshida Shrine in July, considered the birthplace of Japanese hand-held fireworks, tezutsu hanabi: the bearers hold the exploding tubes unprotected in their hands, a spectacular and loud ritual.

Getting There and Day Trips

Tōkaidō Line Shinkansen trains stop at Toyohashi Station, so Nagoya is about 20 minutes away and Tokyo a little over an hour and a half. The nearest international airport is Chūbu Centrair near Nagoya. Worthwhile excursions include Toyokawa Inari Shrine with its hundreds of fox statues and the Atsumi Peninsula out to Cape Irago, with its rapeseed fields in spring. The best times to visit are spring and fall; summer is hot and humid but offers the best festivals.

Port, Industry, and Daily Life

Behind the quiet facade lies a surprisingly international city. Mikawa Port is one of Japan's most important hubs for imported cars, and many people of Brazilian and Filipino descent work in the region's factories. This is reflected in the cityscape: alongside sushi counters you'll find Brazilian supermarkets and barbecue restaurants. Agriculture around Toyohashi is also significant, especially cabbage, quail eggs, and greenhouse vegetables, which you can buy fresh at farmers' markets on the edge of town. If you stay the night, you'll find a selection of business hotels around the station and, in the evening, lively alleys with small pubs where people order beer and grilled skewers after work.