Otsu · 大津市

Just nine minutes by train from Kyōto, and Japan's largest lake lies before you. If you'd like to avoid Kyōto's crowded temples on a trip to Japan, Ōtsu offers important monasteries, lakeside promenades, steamboat cruises, and a sacred mountain – usually with far fewer crowds.

An Old Capital on the Lake

As early as the 7th century, Emperor Tenji moved his court for a few years to Lake Biwa, on whose southern shore Ōtsu lies. The town later developed into the last post station on the Tōkaidō road before Kyōto and a transshipment point for goods arriving across the lake from the north. The eight classic views of Ōmi, which Hiroshige immortalized in woodblock prints, show many places in today's city. At Ōmi Jingū, the shrine dedicated to Emperor Tenji, the championships in karuta – the card game based on classical poetry, familiar from the manga "Chihayafuru" – are held every year.

Sights in Ōtsu

Enryaku-ji sits atop Mount Hiei, the head monastery of the Tendai school, founded in 788 and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kyōto. In the Konponchūdō, a lamp is said to have burned without interruption for more than 1,200 years. At the foot of the mountain lies Sakamoto, with its artfully layered Anō stone walls and the sprawling Hiyoshi Taisha shrine. Mii-dera, with its famous bells, and Ishiyama-dera, where Murasaki Shikibu is said to have begun work on "The Tale of Genji," are among the region's most beautiful temples. A particularly photogenic spot is the Ukimidō in Katata, a small temple hall that stands on stilts above the water.

On and Around Lake Biwa

Excursion boats depart from Ōtsu harbor, including a Mississippi-style paddle steamer that sets off on cruises around the southern part of the lake. The lakeside promenade with its parks and fountains is ideal for evening strolls, and in summer a large fireworks display is held here. In the north of the city, beaches and campgrounds draw families and water sports fans, and from the Biwako Terrace cable car you can enjoy a sweeping view across the lake.

Eating in Ōtsu

The regional cuisine revolves around the lake and the surrounding countryside. The best-known and most distinctive specialty is funazushi, fermented crucian carp from Lake Biwa, whose intense smell delights connoisseurs. Ōmi beef ranks among Japan's finest, and in Sakamoto you can eat soba at long-established restaurants. Red-dyed konnyaku makes an unusual local souvenir. Also worth knowing about on a visit are Ōtsu-e, folk paintings once sold as souvenirs along the Tōkaidō.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

The JR Biwako Line connects Ōtsu with Kyōto in minutes, and the Keihan Railway runs to Sakamoto, where a funicular climbs Mount Hiei. The best times to visit are the cherry blossom season in April and the maple foliage in November, especially at the temples of Sakamoto and Ishiyama. In summer, the fireworks over the lake and cool evenings on the shore are the draw; in winter, Mount Hiei is often snow-covered, and the monasteries feel especially tranquil. If you're staying several days, Ōtsu makes a quieter and more affordable base for day trips to Kyōto.