Kagoshima · 鹿児島市

Across the bay, Sakurajima smokes, and on some days fine ash drifts down onto cars and sidewalks: in Kagoshima, the volcano is part of everyday life. A trip to Kagoshima takes you to the homeland of the Satsuma samurai, to gardens, hot springs, and a cuisine that celebrates pork and sweet potato shōchū.

Satsuma and the Leap into the Modern Age

For centuries, the Shimazu clan ruled over the Satsuma domain, which opened itself early to Western technology. In Sengan-en Garden, the Shimazu residence with the volcano as its backdrop, you'll find the former Shūseikan factory complex, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution. Men from Satsuma such as Saigō Takamori and Ōkubo Toshimichi drove the overthrow of the shogunate. Saigō died in 1877 during the Satsuma Rebellion on Shiroyama Hill, whose lookout point today offers the finest view over the city and bay; his bronze statue stands not far from there in the center of town.

Sights in Kagoshima

Sakurajima is only about 15 minutes away by ferry, and the ferry runs around the clock. On the volcanic island, hiking trails lead through lava fields, a long footbath at the harbor invites you to take a break, and from the Yunohira lookout you can gaze up at the craters. Back in the city, the Reimeikan museum on the grounds of the old Tsurumaru Castle presents the history of Satsuma, while the Ishin Furusato-kan vividly tells the story of the Meiji reformers. Ishibashi Park is home to restored stone arch bridges from the Edo period.

Eating in Kagoshima and Evenings in Tenmonkan

In the evening, everyone heads to Tenmonkan, the downtown arcade and bar district. Here you'll find kurobuta, the meat of black Berkshire pigs, served as tonkatsu or shabu-shabu, as well as kibinago, silver-striped sprats served as sashimi, and satsuma-age, fried fish cakes. Kagoshima ramen has a comparatively mild pork-bone broth. To drink, try imo-jōchū made from sweet potatoes, often diluted with hot water. In hot weather, shirokuma is a must: shaved ice with condensed milk and fruit that is said to have originated in Tenmonkan.

Neighborhoods and Festivals

The city center stretches between Kagoshima-Chūō Station and the harbor; in between lie Tenmonkan, the Izuro-dōri shopping street, and the Dolphin Port waterfront with restaurants and an unobstructed view of the volcano. In early November, the Ohara Festival draws thousands of dancers in yukata through the streets of the center, and in summer a large fireworks display lights up the sky over the bay. In the evening, the trip up to Shiroyama is worth making again, when the city lights come on and Sakurajima lies as a dark silhouette above the water.

Getting Around and Best Time to Visit

Kagoshima-Chūō is the terminus of the Kyūshū Shinkansen, and Fukuoka is about an hour and a half away. Kagoshima Airport (KOJ) is in Kirishima, and buses take about 40 minutes to reach the center. In the city, streetcars and buses run regularly, and a sightseeing loop bus stops at the main attractions. The best times to visit are spring and fall; in summer, the wind blows the ash toward the city more often. Worthwhile excursions lead to the sand baths of Ibusuki, the samurai houses of Chiran, and, by ferry or high-speed boat, the cedar forests of Yakushima.