Ichikawa · 市川市

Chiba begins on the other side of the Edogawa, but Ichikawa has long since grown into Tokyo: commuters stream into the subway in the morning and return to quiet residential streets in the evening. As a day trip during your Tokyo visit, the city is worth it for its large temple district, gardens, literary traces, and the Gyōtoku wetlands.

History and Poets

Ichikawa was already important in ancient times: this was the seat of the provincial government of Shimōsa. In the Mama district, locals tell the legend of the beautiful Tekona, who preferred to throw herself into the sea rather than choose between her suitors. Poets of the Man'yōshū sang of her as early as the 8th century, and the small temple Guhō-ji commemorates her. In the 20th century, many writers and artists moved to green Ichikawa, among them Nagai Kafū, who spent his last years here, and the painter Higashiyama Kaii, to whom a memorial hall is dedicated.

Sights in Ichikawa

The most important site is Nakayama Hokekyō-ji, one of the main temples of the Nichiren school, founded in the 13th century. The route from Shimōsa-Nakayama Station leads along a shopping street to a complex with a five-story pagoda, a main hall, and a magnificent gate; in winter, monks end a hundred-day ascetic training here with dousings of ice-cold water. To the north, Satomi Park lies on the Kōnodai plateau, where battles between the Hōjō and the Satomi raged in the 16th century; today roses bloom there above the river. To the south, the Gyōtoku Bird Sanctuary protects a stretch of wetland on Tokyo Bay.

Gyōtoku and Life by the Water

The Gyōtoku district on the Tōzai Line was once famous for its salt fields, whose salt was shipped to Edo via canals. Today the area is characterized by apartment blocks, office towers, and the alleys around Gyōtoku Station, where restaurants, izakaya, and small bars line up one after another. In the evening, commuters from downtown gather here, and the choices range from ramen to Indian cuisine, since a large Indian community lives in nearby Nishi-Kasai on the same line. Tokyo Disneyland in Urayasu is only a few minutes away.

Eating in Ichikawa and Best Time to Visit

In August and September, Ichikawa is known for its nashi, the juicy Japanese pears sold at farm stands along the roads. The city is one of the prefecture's most important growing areas. On the JR Sōbu Line, you can reach Akihabara in about 20 minutes, and the Tōzai Line goes directly to Nihonbashi and Ōtemachi. The best times to visit are spring and fall: in March the cherry trees bloom along the Mama River, and in November the maples turn color in the Hokekyō-ji temple district.

Excursions Around Ichikawa

Ichikawa is conveniently located for trips in both directions. To the west, a few stations take you to Kinshichō or Ryōgoku with the Kokugikan sumo hall; to the east, you can continue to Funabashi and the coast of Tokyo Bay, where people gather clams in early summer. A pleasant walk leads from Satomi Park along the Edogawa to the north as far as Yagiri, where an old rowing ferry crosses to Shibamata. For families, the municipal zoo and botanical garden in the north is a relaxing destination.