Asahikawa · 旭川市

In winter, king penguins waddle through the snow here; in summer, lavender and poppy fields bloom all around. A vacation in Asahikawa takes you to the heart of Hokkaido – to one of Japan's most popular zoos, to hearty bowls of ramen, and to the edge of the country's largest national park.

A City at Japan's Coldest Spot

Asahikawa lies in a basin where several rivers flow into the Ishikari. The city was founded only in the late 19th century, when settlers and soldiers opened up the land of the Ainu; the Kawamura Kaneto Ainu Museum commemorates the original inhabitants and their culture. On January 25, 1902, Japan's lowest official temperature was recorded here: minus 41 degrees Celsius (minus 42 degrees Fahrenheit). Today Asahikawa is Hokkaido's second-largest city and the center of a well-known furniture industry, whose woodworking craft you can see in showrooms and in the modern train station, designed with plenty of wood.

Things to See in Asahikawa

Asahiyama Zoo became famous across the country in the 2000s because it shows animals not behind bars but in motion: seals swim through a vertical glass tube, polar bears dive right in front of visitors, and in winter the penguin walk leads the animals along a path through the crowd. In the city center, the Heiwa-dōri pedestrian zone, opened in 1972, is considered the first permanent shopping street of its kind in Japan. The Otokoyama Sake Museum tells the story of one of Hokkaido's most storied breweries, and another museum is devoted to snow crystals.

Eating in Asahikawa: Ramen with a Layer of Fat

Asahikawa ramen is the answer to long winters: a soy sauce broth made from pork and chicken bones, often combined with fish and topped with a layer of lard that keeps the soup hot. At the Ramen Village on the edge of town, several well-known shops have joined forces, which makes it ideal for comparing them. Also worth trying are shio horumon (grilled offal), Jingisukan lamb barbecue, and fresh vegetables from the surrounding countryside. The area is a rice-growing region, and local breweries turn it into a dry sake.

Excursions and Best Time to Visit

East of the city rises the Daisetsuzan massif. A cable car brings hikers up Asahidake, Hokkaido's highest mountain, with steaming fumaroles and early fall colors as soon as September. To the south lie the hills of Biei with the Blue Pond and the lavender fields of Furano, which bloom in July. The best time to visit is summer, with pleasant temperatures; if you love snow, come in early February for the winter festival with giant snow sculptures.

Getting Around Asahikawa

Asahikawa Airport is about half an hour southeast of the center and has connections to Tokyo. Limited express trains from Sapporo take about 85 minutes. Buses serve the zoo, Ramen Village, and excursion destinations; for Biei, Furano, and Asahidake, a rental car is often the most convenient. In winter, plan on warm clothing and non-slip shoes, since temperatures well below minus 10 degrees Celsius (14 degrees Fahrenheit) are not uncommon. In return, the powder snow is legendary: several ski areas, including Kamui Ski Links, are only a short hour away and are much quieter than the well-known resorts around Niseko. Sōunkyō Onsen, in a gorge of the Daisetsuzan, is also a worthwhile detour.