Naples souterrain

The Church of San Ferdinando stands in the heart of Naples' historic center, right on Piazza Trieste e Trento and just steps from the Galleria Umberto I and the Teatro San Carlo. The Jesuits originally planned it as a place of worship for Saint Francis Xavier, but it was only built after a generous donation from the Spanish viceroy's wife in the 17th century. Cosimo Fanzago is considered the true creator of the design, which took the ideas of his predecessors into account. Construction dragged on for decades, and the interior decoration was completed only in the late 17th and early 18th centuries by artists such as Paolo De Matteis and Domenico Antonio Vaccaro. After the Jesuits were expelled, the church changed hands several times before passing to the Arciconfraternita di Nostra Signora dei Sette Dolori in 1827. Today it is known as the "Church of Nobles and Kings" as well as the "Church of Artists," since the funerals of many famous Neapolitan figures from the worlds of theater and music were held here.

The exterior stands out for the contrast between dark piperno stone and white marble on the facade. The lower part dates from the 17th century, while the upper section was renewed in the 18th century and later given a neoclassical makeover as part of the city's urban renewal. Inside, you'll find a cruciform space with a crossing dome, defined by opulent marble decoration in golden yellow, pink, and white. Especially striking are the sculpted Composite capitals above striped pilasters. The space is richly adorned with frescoes by Paolo De Matteis, including a large ceiling painting of the Triumph of Religion and scenes from the lives of the Jesuit saints. The side chapels and transept hold further art treasures, including works by Pietro da Cortona, Jusepe de Ribera, and Domenico Antonio Vaccaro, as well as tombs of historical figures. You can also attend the traditional Mass in Latin according to the old rite, held every Sunday.