Oakland

At Lake Merritt, a saltwater lagoon in the middle of the city, people jog beneath a string of lights, families barbecue along the shore, and drum circles play on Sundays – Oakland comes across as open, diverse, and creative. A trip to Oakland is the counterpart to nearby San Francisco: less touristy, sunnier, and home to one of the most exciting restaurant scenes in California. For a city break in the Bay Area, a side trip to the other side of the bay is well worth it.

Port, Railroad, and Civil Rights

Oakland was founded in 1852 on land that had been part of a Spanish-Mexican ranch, and in 1869 it became the western terminus of the transcontinental railroad. After the 1906 earthquake, many people fled here from San Francisco. Shipyards during World War II drew African American workers from the South, and in 1966 Huey Newton and Bobby Seale founded the Black Panther Party in Oakland. Today the port is one of the largest container ports on the West Coast, and its cranes are said to have inspired George Lucas's walkers in "Star Wars."

Attractions in Oakland

Lake Merritt, with its loop trail, boat rentals, and the oldest wildlife refuge in the U.S., is the heart of the city; on its shore sits Children's Fairyland, a storybook theme park said to have inspired Walt Disney. The Oakland Museum of California tells the story of the state's art, history, and nature in a terraced building with a rooftop garden. Jack London Square on the waterfront honors the writer who grew up here with a small cabin and Heinold's First and Last Chance Saloon, dating from 1883. The 1920s-style Fox Theater is a magnificent concert hall. In the Oakland Hills, parks such as Redwood Regional Park offer hiking trails beneath redwoods.

Neighborhoods and Food

The Temescal neighborhood draws visitors with cafés and boutiques on small side streets, Rockridge with restaurants and gourmet shops, and Uptown around the Fox Theater with bars and galleries. Chinatown, Fruitvale with its Mexican and Central American culture, and the Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurants on Telegraph Avenue reflect the city's diversity. Oakland's restaurants combine California freshness with influences from around the world, and wine bars in former warehouses at Jack London Square pour wines from nearby growing regions.

Culture and Nightlife

Oakland has a creative art and music scene. Galleries and studios are spread across Uptown, Jack London Square, and West Oakland, and the Paramount Theatre, a magnificent Art Deco palace, hosts concerts and the Oakland Symphony. Jazz, soul, and hip-hop have deep roots in the city. At the Chabot Space & Science Center in the hills, you can gaze at the night sky through large telescopes. Beer gardens and wine bars in converted warehouses invite you to linger in warm weather.

Getting Around, When to Go, and Day Trips

Oakland International Airport is connected to the BART network by an automated train, which gets you to San Francisco in about 15 minutes; ferries also link Jack London Square with the Ferry Building. As in many big cities, you should stay alert at night in some areas. The best time to visit is from May to October; Oakland is often warmer and less foggy than San Francisco. Day trips lead to Berkeley with its university, Mount Diablo State Park, the Napa Valley, and of course San Francisco.