Detroit

In an unassuming house on West Grand Boulevard, the Supremes, Stevie Wonder, and Marvin Gaye recorded their hits – "Hitsville U.S.A." is now the Motown Museum. A trip to Detroit takes you to a city that, after decades of decline, is experiencing a remarkable comeback, with Art Deco skyscrapers, world-class art, and creative dining. For a city break off the beaten path, the "Motor City" is an exciting discovery.

Rise, Fall, and a Fresh Start

In 1701, the Frenchman Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac founded a fort on the river between Lake Huron and Lake Erie; "détroit" means strait. In the early 20th century, Henry Ford's assembly line made Detroit the automotive capital of the world, with General Motors and Chrysler following. The city grew to nearly two million residents, and magnificent skyscrapers and mansions went up. Race riots in 1967, the exodus to the suburbs, and the crisis in the auto industry caused Detroit to shrink, and in 2013 the city filed for bankruptcy. Since then, investment, artists, and entrepreneurs have revived the downtown area.

Detroit Sights

The Detroit Institute of Arts in the cultural district of Midtown is one of the most important art museums in the U.S.; it is famous for Diego Rivera's "Detroit Industry" murals, which depict workers in the Ford plants. In the nearby suburb of Dearborn, the Henry Ford Museum tells the story of America with the bus on which Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat and Kennedy's limousine, while factory tours show how pickup trucks are built. In Downtown, the Guardian Building with its colorful lobby and the restored Michigan Central Station, a once-abandoned train station that is now an innovation hub, are impressive. The Detroit Riverwalk and Belle Isle, an island in the river, invite you to stroll with views of Canada.

Neighborhoods, Art, and Food

Corktown, the oldest neighborhood, draws visitors with bars, restaurants, and Victorian houses, while Eastern Market on Saturdays is one of the largest farmers markets in the U.S. and is surrounded by murals. The Heidelberg Project, an open-air installation made of painted houses and found objects, and the street art in the Art District show Detroit's creative side. To the north lie the Medical Center and quiet residential neighborhoods such as Grandmont-Rosedale with brick houses from the 1920s. Detroit's restaurants are known for Detroit-style pizza, baked rectangular in a steel pan with a crispy cheese crust, and the Coney dog with chili, mustard, and onions. In neighboring Dearborn lives one of the largest Arab American communities in the U.S., with excellent Lebanese and Yemeni restaurants.

Music, Sports, and Festivals

Detroit is not just Motown: techno has its roots here too, celebrated at the Movement Festival over Memorial Day weekend at Hart Plaza. Stars and ensembles perform at the Fox Theatre and the Detroit Opera House. The Tigers play at Comerica Park, the Lions at Ford Field, and the Red Wings and Pistons at Little Caesars Arena – all within walking distance of Downtown. In January, the Detroit Auto Show traditionally draws car fans, and in summer, fireworks and a jazz festival bring crowds to the river.

Getting Around, When to Go, and Day Trips

Detroit Metropolitan Airport is about 19 miles southwest of downtown and is a Delta hub. The QLine streetcar runs along Woodward Avenue and the People Mover circles Downtown; otherwise, a car is handy. The best time to visit is between May and October; winters are cold and snowy. Day trips lead to Greenfield Village in Dearborn, to Ann Arbor with the University of Michigan, and across the border to Windsor, Canada.