Baltimore

In 1814, after a night under British bombardment, the flag was still flying over Fort McHenry – the sight inspired Francis Scott Key to write the American national anthem. A trip to Baltimore takes you to a port city of brick row houses, cobblestone streets and the best crabs on the East Coast. For a city break, perhaps combined with Washington, “Charm City” is a quirky, likable choice.

A Port City with History

Founded in 1729 and named after the Lords Baltimore, the city, with its sheltered harbor on Chesapeake Bay, grew into one of the most important ports in the United States. The first lines of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, the country's oldest railroad company, were built here. In the 19th and 20th centuries, shipyards, steelworks and immigrants from Germany, Ireland, Poland and Italy shaped the city. After industry declined, the Inner Harbor became, from the 1970s onward, a model for the redevelopment of waterfront districts worldwide.

Sights in Baltimore

The Inner Harbor is home to the National Aquarium with its tropical rain forest and shark tank, historic ships such as the frigate USS Constellation, and the Maryland Science Center. From Federal Hill Park you get views of the harbor and skyline. Fort McHenry National Monument, with its star-shaped ramparts, can be reached by water taxi. In the Mount Vernon neighborhood stands the first major monument to George Washington, older than the obelisk in the nation's capital, surrounded by townhouses and the Walters Art Museum, which offers free admission. The Baltimore Museum of Art holds the world's largest collection of works by Henri Matisse, and the American Visionary Art Museum showcases offbeat art by self-taught artists. The Edgar Allan Poe House commemorates the writer, who died in Baltimore.

Neighborhoods and Food in Baltimore

Fell's Point, with its cobblestones, pubs and 18th-century houses, is the most atmospheric neighborhood, while Canton, with its row houses and O'Donnell Square, is a popular meeting spot. Federal Hill draws crowds with its bars, and Hampden with vintage shops, diners and the quirky Christmas lights of “Miracle on 34th Street.” Baltimore's restaurants draw on the Chesapeake Bay: blue crabs are steamed with Old Bay seasoning and cracked with a wooden mallet on newspaper, and crab cakes with lots of crabmeat and little filler are considered an art form. Lexington Market, one of the oldest markets in the U.S., has been rebuilt. For dessert, try Berger Cookies with their thick chocolate icing.

Culture and Festivals

Baltimore has a lively art and music scene. In summer, the Artscape festival turns the streets around Mount Vernon into a huge open-air gallery, and the Hippodrome Theatre hosts Broadway productions. Baseball fans can catch the Orioles at Oriole Park at Camden Yards, a retro-style stadium that served as a model for many new ballparks. The Reginald F. Lewis Museum is devoted to African American history in Maryland, and the B&O Railroad Museum displays historic locomotives in a round roundhouse.

Getting Around, When to Go and Day Trips

Baltimore/Washington Airport lies about 9 miles south of the city and is connected by light rail and regional train; Amtrak trains run from Penn Station to Washington and New York. In the downtown area, the free Charm City Circulator and water taxis help you get around. As in many large cities, you should avoid walking outside busy neighborhoods at night. The best times to visit are spring and fall, and crab season runs from roughly April to November. Day trips lead to Annapolis with its Naval Academy, to Washington, and to the beaches of Ocean City.