Calvià

Calvià is the municipality with the most hotel beds in Mallorca – and yet anything but uniform. Just a few miles separate the party strip of Magaluf, the elegant marina of Puerto Portals, and quiet mountain villages. A vacation in Calvià combines beaches on the island's southwest coast with hiking trails in the Serra de Tramuntana.

From Village to Tourist Municipality

The main town of Calvià is a small village in the interior with a neo-Gothic church and views over almond and carob trees. Until the 1950s, people here lived off agriculture. Then hoteliers discovered the coves along the coast, and places like Magaluf, Palmanova, and Santa Ponça grew rapidly. Incidentally, it was at Santa Ponça that King James I landed with his fleet in 1229 to conquer Mallorca – a large stone cross on the headland commemorates the event.

Beaches and Sights in Calvià

The coast of Calvià is a string of coves. Palmanova and Magaluf have long sandy beaches with shallow water, while Santa Ponça has a sheltered bay with a promenade. It's quieter at Cala Fornells near Peguera, where turquoise water shimmers between rocks and pine trees, or at Platja de Portals Vells, which can only be reached via a pine-lined path and has an old cave chapel hidden in its rocks. Puerto Portals is one of the most exclusive marinas in the Mediterranean, and Port Adriano near El Toro was designed by Philippe Starck. On the western edge lies Sant Elm, a small village from which boats run to the Sa Dragonera nature reserve island, which rises from the sea like a sleeping dragon.

Magaluf in Transition

Magaluf was long a symbol of excessive party tourism. For some years now, the municipality has been trying to change its image: alcohol sales hours have been restricted, some hotels have been renovated and geared toward families and couples, and new restaurants have opened along the promenade. The nightlife is still there, especially at Punta Ballena, but other parts of Calvià are far more laid-back. For families, water parks such as Western Water Park and an adventure climbing park offer variety.

Food and the Interior

The cuisine of Calvià is Mallorcan: pa amb oli with tomato, olive oil, and ham, sobrasada, tumbet, and frit mallorquí. Puerto Portals and Port Adriano have fine restaurants with sea views, while the village of Calvià and Es Capdellà have simple taverns serving regional dishes. From Es Capdellà, hiking trails lead up Galatzó, a distinctive peak that is part of the Serra de Tramuntana and offers far-reaching views over the southwest. Golfers also have several courses to choose from in the municipality.

Getting Around and Best Time to Visit

Palma Airport (PMI) is about 12 miles to the east, and transfers take roughly half an hour. TIB buses connect the coastal towns with Palma, and a cycling route runs partly along the coast. The best times to visit are May, June, September, and October; in high summer it's hot and crowded, and in winter many hotels are closed. On the other hand, between November and March the coastal paths and mountain trails belong almost entirely to hikers and cyclists, who appreciate the mild climate and empty roads. Palma, with its cathedral and old town, is also quickly reached from Calvià.