Xalapa

Mist drifts over the hills, the streets climb steeply, and the cafés serve locally grown coffee: Xalapa, the capital of Veracruz, is a green university town with one of the best museums in Mexico. A trip here is worth it for the culture, the coffee, and day trips into the mountains.

The City of Flowers

Xalapa, also spelled Jalapa, gave the jalapeño chile its name. In colonial times the city was a stop on the route between the port of Veracruz and Mexico City, and in the 18th century large trade fairs were held here. Today the Universidad Veracruzana and the state government shape life in the city. Thanks to its damp climate and abundant gardens, Xalapa goes by the nickname "Ciudad de las Flores." Neighborhoods such as Obrero Campesina and Colonia José Cardel spread across the hills.

Sights in Xalapa

The Museo de Antropología de Xalapa is the most important archaeological museum in the country after the National Museum in Mexico City. In a light-filled building that winds down a hillside, you'll find colossal Olmec heads carved from basalt, along with finds from the Totonac and Huastec cultures. In the center are the cathedral and the Parque Juárez, a terrace with a view of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico's highest mountain. The Parque de los Tecajetes and the Parque Los Lagos are green oases in the middle of the city, with lakes, ravines, and walking paths beneath tall trees. The Jardín Botánico Francisco Javier Clavijero on the edge of town, which showcases the plant life of the cloud forest, is also worth a visit. The gallery in the Palacio de Gobierno displays murals on the history of Veracruz.

Culture and Nightlife

Thanks to the university, Xalapa is a city of culture. The Orquesta Sinfónica de Xalapa is one of the oldest orchestras in the country and performs in a modern concert hall. Theater, dance, and jazz are regularly on the program. In the evening, people gather in the alleys around the Callejón del Diamante, where bars, bookstores, and cafés are packed close together. Live music, from son jarocho to rock, is part of everyday life.

Eating in Xalapa

Xalapa is a coffee city: highland coffee is grown in the mountains around the city, for example near Coatepec, and the cafés roast it fresh. Regional cuisine includes chiles rellenos, enchiladas, and local tamales. A classic is chilpachole, a spicy crab soup. At the Mercado Jáuregui you'll find fruit, food stalls, and fresh local cheese. For breakfast, locals like to order picadas or gordas negras made with black beans, and in the afternoon a piece of pan dulce with coffee. In Coatepec, just a few miles away, you'll also find a popular liqueur made from regional fruits.

Getting Around, When to Go, and Day Trips

The small El Lencero airport (JAL) has only a few connections; most people fly into Veracruz (VER), about 62 miles away. Buses from Mexico City take about five hours. In the city, buses and taxis are the usual way to get around. The best time to visit is between October and May, though it is often foggy even then. Day trips lead to Coatepec and Xico, two Pueblos Mágicos with coffee plantations and waterfalls, as well as to rafting on the Río Pescados near Jalcomulco. The state of Veracruz has problems with crime; in downtown Xalapa the situation is usually calm for visitors.