Los Mochis

For many travelers, Los Mochis is where one of the world's most spectacular train rides begins: the Chepe departs from here for Copper Canyon. But if you stay one night longer, you'll discover a young, tidy city in northern Sinaloa with lush gardens, excellent seafood, and the port of Topolobampo right on its doorstep.

A City Built on Sugarcane and Utopian Dreams

Los Mochis is one of the youngest cities in Mexico. In the late 19th century, the American Albert Kimsey Owen tried to found a socialist model colony in Topolobampo, but the project failed. Soon afterward, his fellow countryman Benjamin Johnston built a large sugar mill, and the city grew up around it. The checkerboard street grid and the wide avenues date back to this era. Today, Los Mochis is the center of a rich agricultural region where tomatoes, corn, vegetables, and sugarcane are grown.

Things to See in Los Mochis

The green heart of the city is Parque Sinaloa, which grew out of Benjamin Johnston's former garden. Families stroll beneath giant ficus trees and palms, birds nest in the treetops, and a botanical garden displays plants from around the world. On the Cerro de la Memoria above the city, a lookout point with a cross offers views over fields and sea. The Museo Regional del Valle del Fuerte tells the story of the region, from the indigenous Mayo people to the sugar industry. The church of Sagrado Corazón de Jesús stands in the city center, which is easy to explore on foot.

Eating in Los Mochis

Los Mochis is known for seafood from the Bay of Topolobampo. Aguachile, ceviche, callo de hacha (scallop), and shrimp are served fresh and spicy. The city is also famous for its Sinaloa-style sushi culture: rolls that are deep-fried, filled with cream cheese, and served with chili sauces. At lunchtime you'll find carne asada and chilorio, and in the evening taquerías and hot dog stands. A regional snack is coricos, a cornmeal pastry you can find at the markets. On weekends, many families head to Topolobampo or to El Maviri beach, where small restaurants under palm-thatched roofs serve fresh fish, oysters, and shrimp straight off the boat. An ice-cold Sinaloa beer is the natural accompaniment.

Getting Around, When to Go, and Day Trips

Federal del Valle del Fuerte Airport (LMM) lies to the southwest and has connections to Mexico City, Tijuana, and Guadalajara. The Chepe Express departs from the train station in the morning toward Creel, crossing bridges, tunnels, and canyons all the way into the Sierra Tarahumara. Many travelers break the journey with an overnight stay in El Fuerte, a Pueblo Mágico with colonial architecture, or in Divisadero on the canyon rim. From Topolobampo, about 12 miles (20 km) away, a ferry runs to La Paz in Baja California Sur; from the port you can also watch dolphins and seabirds in the bay. The best time to visit is between October and April. Sinaloa is affected by cartel violence; the situation in Los Mochis is usually calmer, but you should avoid intercity travel at night.