Tokorozawa · 所沢市

A gray granite block jutting from the ground like a boulder houses a library with bookshelves eight meters (26 feet) high – the Kadokawa Culture Museum is the new landmark of Tokorozawa. A trip to this city west of Tokyo also takes you to Japan's first airfield, to the woods that inspired Hayao Miyazaki's "My Neighbor Totoro," and to a baseball game in a stadium under a floating roof.

Cradle of Japanese Aviation

In 1911, Japan's first airfield opened in Tokorozawa, where military pilots trained in early biplanes and aviation pioneers tested their machines. After the war, US forces used the site, and a large part of it later became Tokorozawa Aviation Memorial Park. The aviation museum displays historic airplanes and helicopters, and offers flight simulators and an exhibition on the pioneers of Japanese flight. The park, with its lawns and cherry trees, is also a popular picnic spot for families.

Sights in Tokorozawa

In the east of the city, media company Kadokawa opened Tokorozawa Sakura Town in 2020. At its heart is the Kadokawa Culture Museum, designed by Kengo Kuma, with its book hall, where light projections take place regularly, as well as exhibitions on manga, anime, and literature. Right next door stands the Musashino Reiwa Shrine, also designed by Kuma, which is visited mainly by anime fans. In the west of the city lie the Sayama Hills with Lake Sayama and Lake Tama, surrounded by forests, hiking trails, and cherry trees. On the shore of Lake Sayama stands Belluna Dome, home of the Saitama Seibu Lions, whose roof floats above the stands while the sides stay open.

In Totoro's Forest

Hayao Miyazaki has lived in the area for many years, and the landscape of the Sayama Hills, with its rice paddies, tea plantations, and oak woods, served as the model for "My Neighbor Totoro." For decades, a foundation has been buying up parcels of forest there to protect them from development; they are called Totoro no Mori and are freely accessible via trails. On certain days, you can see Totoro figures and exhibitions on the nature of the hills in an old farmhouse, Kurosuke's House. A walk is especially lovely in early summer, when the fresh green foliage glows.

Eating in Tokorozawa

In the west of the prefecture, Sayama tea is grown, known for its strong, deep flavor; tea farmers sell their harvest directly, and cafés serve sweets made with matcha. Around Tokorozawa Station, where the two Seibu lines cross, you will find a large shopping center, izakaya, ramen shops, and udon restaurants serving thick Musashino udon with warm dipping broth. In the evening, the alleys near the station come alive, especially on Lions game days, when fans in jerseys head to the pubs after the game to discuss the result over beer and yakitori.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

From Ikebukuro or Seibu-Shinjuku, Tokorozawa is about 25 to 40 minutes away by Seibu train; buses run to Sakura Town and the Sayama Hills. The best times to visit are spring, with cherry blossoms at the lakes, and fall, with its colorful foliage; the baseball season runs from late March to late September.