County Westmeath: Lake Country in the Middle of Ireland
Travel guide · editorialAthlone is home to Sean's Bar, considered the oldest pub in Ireland and said to have been serving customers since the 10th century. A trip to County Westmeath takes you to the heart of the island, a land of lakes, canals, and fishing spots that many travelers overlook on their way west.
Lakes and Landscape
Westmeath is often called the "Lake County": Lough Ree on the Shannon, Lough Ennell, Lough Owel, Lough Derravaragh, and Lough Lene lie scattered among pastures and low hills. The Royal Canal crosses the east of the county and offers long towpaths for cyclists. Lough Derravaragh is said to be the setting of the legend of the Children of Lir, who were turned into swans. In ancient times, the Hill of Uisneach was regarded as the mythical center of Ireland, and a Beltane fire still burns there every May.
Athlone and Mullingar
Athlone sits on the Shannon on the border between Leinster and Connacht. Athlone Castle guards the bridge, and the district on the west bank has colorful houses, cafés, and pubs. Boats leave from here for Lough Ree and Clonmacnoise. Mullingar, the county seat, is a market town with a large cathedral; south of town you'll find Belvedere House with its gardens and the "Jealous Wall," an artificial ruin from the 18th century. Near Castlepollard, Tullynally Castle and its grounds are worth a visit, and near Fore you can see the monastic ruins and their "seven wonders."
Getting There and Best Time to Visit
Athlone and Mullingar are connected to Dublin by train, and the Old Rail Trail runs as a greenway between the two towns. The best time to visit is between May and September, when boat rentals and the fishing season are in full swing. Westmeath is also well known among anglers: Lough Ennell and Lough Owel are considered good waters for brown trout, and rowboats can be rented along many shores. In summer, Mullingar hosts music and farm festivals. In the east, a detour to Kilbeggan is worthwhile, where one of the oldest licensed whiskey distilleries in the world offers tours and tastings.