Saint Paul

Minneapolis is considered the modern sister, Saint Paul the older, more dignified one – with Victorian mansions, a massive cathedral, and a winter carnival that has been defying the frost since 1886. A trip to Saint Paul takes you to Minnesota's capital on the Mississippi, a city you may associate with F. Scott Fitzgerald, ice palaces, and hockey.

From Pig's Eye to State Capital

The settlement was first known as Pig's Eye, after the nickname of a whiskey seller, until a French missionary gave it the name Saint Paul in 1841 by building a chapel there. As the end of the line for steamboat travel on the Mississippi, the city grew quickly and became the capital of the Minnesota Territory in 1849. Railroad magnate James J. Hill had one of the largest mansions in the Midwest built on Summit Avenue. The Rondo neighborhood, the heart of the Black community, was cut in two by highway construction in the 1960s; today the Rondo Commemorative Plaza recalls this history.

Sights in Saint Paul

The Minnesota State Capitol, designed by Cass Gilbert, with its marble dome and golden horse-drawn chariot, can be toured for free. From there you look across to the Cathedral of Saint Paul, one of the largest churches in the U.S. Summit Avenue is considered the longest preserved street of Victorian homes in the country; the James J. Hill House stands here, and Fitzgerald wrote his first novel in a row house on this street. The Minnesota History Center and the Science Museum of Minnesota on the riverfront are good choices for rainy days. Como Park is home to a free zoo and the Marjorie McNeely Conservatory, a glass greenhouse from 1915.

Eating and Going Out in Saint Paul

Saint Paul has one of the largest Hmong communities in the U.S.; at Hmong Village and the Hmongtown Marketplace you'll find papaya salad, herb sausages, and sticky rice. Grand Avenue and the Cathedral Hill neighborhood offer cafés, bistros, and pubs, while Lowertown, with its warehouses, has breweries and restaurants around the Saint Paul Farmers' Market. Minnesota classics include the Juicy Lucy, a burger stuffed with cheese, and walleye, a freshwater fish from the lakes. In summer, the Minnesota State Fair in late August is worth a visit, with everything that can be deep-fried on a stick.

Hockey, River, and Winter Fun

Saint Paul likes to call itself a hockey town: the NHL's Minnesota Wild play at the Xcel Energy Center, and countless ice rinks are set up on ponds and lakes in winter. During the Winter Carnival, ice sculptures appear, and in some years even an ice palace. In summer, the Mississippi offers boat tours and riverside paths, such as in Harriet Island Regional Park across from downtown. The Landmark Center, a former federal courthouse in the Richardsonian Romanesque style, now houses cultural institutions and exhibitions.

Getting Around Saint Paul and the Best Time to Visit

Minneapolis–Saint Paul Airport lies between the twin cities. The Green Line light rail connects downtown Saint Paul and Union Depot station with the University of Minnesota and Minneapolis. The best time to visit is summer, with warm weather and festivals. The Saint Paul Winter Carnival takes place in late January – at temperatures that can fall far below zero. Day trips lead to the bluffs along the Mississippi in Indian Mounds Regional Park, to Minnehaha Falls in Minneapolis, or to Stillwater on the St. Croix River. If you plan to attend the State Fair, it's best to stay near the fairgrounds in the quiet South Saint Anthony Park neighborhood.