Leicester

In 2012, archaeologists digging beneath a parking lot in Leicester unearthed a skeleton with a curved spine – it was King Richard III, missing for more than 500 years. A city break in Leicester takes you to this historical detective story, to one of the largest Diwali celebrations outside India, to a space center, and to a soccer fairy tale.

Romans, Kings, and Stockings

Leicester is one of the oldest cities in England. The Romans called it Ratae Corieltauvorum, and a wall from their bathhouse still rises at the Jewry Wall, with a museum next door showing mosaics and archaeological finds. In 1485, Richard III fell at the nearby Battle of Bosworth and was buried in a Leicester friary church that disappeared after the Reformation. In the 19th century, the city grew rich on knitwear, hosiery, and shoes. After World War II, many immigrants arrived from India, Pakistan, and East Africa, and today Leicester is one of the most culturally diverse cities in Britain.

Sights in Leicester

The King Richard III Visitor Centre stands directly above the discovery site; through a glass floor you look down onto the grave, and the exhibition tells how researchers identified the king using DNA. Since 2015, he has rested in the cathedral across the street beneath a tombstone of Swaledale limestone. The National Space Centre in the north of the city, recognizable by its transparent rocket tower, displays real rockets, space suits, and a large planetarium. The New Walk Museum houses a well-known collection of German Expressionists. In Abbey Park on the River Soar lie the ruins of the abbey where Cardinal Wolsey died.

Golden Mile and Diwali

Belgrave Road, nicknamed the Golden Mile for its many gold jewelry shops, is the heart of the Indian community, with saris, sweet shops, and vegetarian restaurants. During the Festival of Lights, Diwali, in October or November, the street glows with thousands of lights; tens of thousands of people come for the switch-on and on the festival day itself, and fireworks light up the sky. It is one of the largest Diwali celebrations outside India. The community's other festivals, from the Caribbean Carnival in August to Vaisakhi, also shape city life.

Food and Sports

Leicester is a stronghold of Indian cuisine, especially the vegetarian dishes of Gujarat, and many family-run restaurants serve thali, dosa, and sweets such as jalebi. Leicester Market, one of the largest covered outdoor markets in Europe, offers fruit, vegetables, and street food. Red Leicester, an orange-colored cheese, and Walkers potato chips, whose factory is in Leicester, both come from the region. In 2016, Leicester City won the English league title in one of the greatest upsets in sports history. The rugby team Leicester Tigers is also among the most successful in England.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

East Midlands Airport is about 19 miles to the northwest, and the train to London St Pancras takes a little over an hour. Suburbs such as Oadby, Birstall, and Thurmaston are reachable by bus. The best time to visit is from May to September or during Diwali. Day trips lead to Melton Mowbray, the home of pork pies, and to the Bosworth battlefield.