San Marino

San Marino is considered the oldest surviving republic in the world, perched with its three towers on Monte Titano, about 12 miles (20 km) inland from Rimini. A vacation in San Marino pairs well with beach days on the Adriatic, but if you stay overnight, you'll experience the old town without the day-trippers and with views of the lights along the coast.

The Three Towers and the Old Town

The capital, San Marino, clings to the ridge of Monte Titano, a 739-meter (2,425-foot) limestone mountain that drops away sheer to the east. Along this edge stand the three fortress towers, which also appear on the national coat of arms and the flag. The Guaita, the oldest tower, dates back to the 11th century and served as a prison for a long time. A path along the ridge, the Passo delle Streghe, leads to the Cesta, which today houses a museum of antique weapons. The third tower, the Montale, can only be viewed from the outside.

The old town, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with Monte Titano since 2008, is a maze of steep lanes and stairways. On Piazza della Libertà stands the crenellated Palazzo Pubblico, seat of the government and parliament; in front of it, the changing of the guard takes place every hour in summer. The Basilica di San Marino holds the relics of the founder. Other sights in San Marino include the State Museum, the Stamp and Coin Museum, and numerous rather quirky private museums. A cable car connects the old town with Borgo Maggiore, lower down, where locals shop at the market.

History of the World's Oldest Republic

According to legend, the stonemason Marinus, a Christian from the Dalmatian island of Rab, founded a community on the mountain in the year 301 to escape persecution. Over the centuries, the republic has held its own against popes, princes, and Napoleon, and it was not absorbed during the unification of Italy either. To this day, the head of state consists of two Captains Regent, who are newly elected every six months. Their inauguration on April 1 and October 1 is celebrated with parades in medieval uniforms. The most important holiday is September 3, the feast of Saint Marinus, and at the end of July, the Medieval Days bring the old town to life with archers, flag throwers, and jugglers.

Food and Drink

The cuisine is similar to that of neighboring Romagna. Piadina, a thin flatbread filled with ham, squacquerone cheese, and arugula, is baked fresh everywhere. Homemade pasta such as tagliatelle, strozzapreti, and cappelletti in broth is on every menu, along with rabbit with fennel and grilled meats. The best-known dessert is the Torta Tre Monti, a wafer cake with chocolate and hazelnut cream whose shape recalls the three towers. Sangiovese and the white Biancale come from the vineyards on the slopes, and an herbal liqueur is often served to finish the meal.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

San Marino has neither an airport nor a train station. The nearest airports are Rimini (RMI) and Bologna (BLQ). From Rimini train station, scheduled buses run several times a day and reach the old town in just under an hour. By car, the expressway from Rimini leads directly to the foot of the mountain; there are several paid parking lots at the top. There are no border checks. San Marino is not a member of the EU, but it uses the euro and mints its own coins, which are popular with collectors.

The best time to visit San Marino is May, June, and September, when temperatures of 68 to 81°F (20 to 27°C) are warm but not oppressive. In July and August, many beachgoers arrive from the Adriatic, and the lanes get crowded. It is usually a few degrees cooler on the mountain than on the coast, and snow can even fall in winter. In December, a Christmas market draws visitors to the old town.