Vâlcea: Spa Towns and Monasteries on the Olt
Travel guide · editorialVâlcea stretches from the Olt's breakthrough through the Southern Carpathians to the vine-covered hills of Lesser Wallachia. A trip to Vâlcea combines venerable spa towns, a UNESCO-listed monastery, and one of Romania's best-known pottery traditions.
Along the Olt Through the Carpathians
The Olt River cuts through the mountains between Sibiu and Râmnicu Vâlcea, and the spa towns line up along this gorge. Călimănești-Căciulata has been known since the 19th century for its sulfurous springs, which Napoleon III is said to have had brought to him. Băile Olănești, in a wooded side valley, has dozens of mineral springs. Râmnicu Vâlcea itself is a quiet county seat with a local hill, Capela Hill, and an open-air village museum in the countryside near Bujoreni.
Sights in Vâlcea
Horezu Monastery, founded in 1690 by Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu, is the masterpiece of the Brâncoveanu style, with arcades, stone carvings, and rich frescoes, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993. In the town of Horezu, potters make the typical plates with rooster and spiral motifs; this ceramic tradition is on the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage. Cozia Monastery on the Olt was founded in 1388 by Mircea the Elder, who is buried there. Somewhat off the beaten path are the hermitages and wooden churches around Horezu, including Bistrița Monastery and Arnota Monastery high above the valley, as well as the Ocnele Mari salt mine, where you can stroll through the chambers and breathe salty air. In the south, red wines such as Novac and Negru de Drăgășani ripen around Drăgășani, along with the fresh white wine Crâmpoșie selecționată. High in the Lotru Mountains, the Transalpina crosses Obârșia Lotrului, one of Romania's highest roads.
Food, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit
Oltenian cuisine loves vegetables, grilled meat, and soups flavored with lovage; monasteries often serve Lenten dishes made with beans and mushrooms. Vâlcea lies on the main road between Sibiu and Pitești, and the nearest airport is Sibiu. May through October is the best time to visit; the Transalpina is usually passable only from July to October. Every year in early summer, Horezu hosts a large pottery fair that draws ceramists from many parts of the country.