Sălaj

A trip to Sălaj takes you into a quiet hill country in northwestern Transylvania, well off the beaten path. Here, on the northern frontier of the former Roman Empire, the walls of Porolissum still stand, and the villages are dotted with wooden churches and farmhouses.

Landscape and Location

Sălaj County lies between the Western Carpathians and the Someș Valley. The Meseș Mountains, a forested ridge that formed a natural border in antiquity, mark its southwestern edge. Beyond them, rolling countryside unfolds with orchards, pastures, and vineyards. Near Gâlgău Almașului, oddly shaped sandstone pillars rise from the meadows in the Grădina Zmeilor, the "Dragon Garden" – a popular outing for families. Legends of dragons and giants said to have lived here cling to the rocks. Around a quarter of the population speaks Hungarian, and many place names are bilingual.

Sights in Sălaj

The top destination is Porolissum near Moigrad, the largest Roman military and civilian settlement in the north of the province of Dacia. The reconstructed gate, remains of the amphitheater, and the walls of the fort sit on a hill with sweeping views over the countryside. Finds from the site are on display at the County Museum in Zalău, the county seat at the foot of the Meseș. In Jibou, the Baroque Wesselényi Castle with its large botanical garden is among the region's most beautiful complexes. Șimleu Silvaniei was the seat of the Báthory princely family; above the town you'll find the ruins of their castle and the vineyards of Măgura Șimleului, and the synagogue houses a Holocaust memorial. Many villages have old wooden churches with pointed shingle steeples.

Food, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit

Transylvanian dishes such as stuffed cabbage rolls, smoked bacon, bean soup served in a bread bowl, and plum brandy are on the menu; sparkling and white wines come from Carastelec and the Măgura. The best time to visit is from May to October. Zalău lies on the road between Cluj-Napoca and Satu Mare, about 53 miles (85 km) from Cluj-Napoca with its international airport; the A3 motorway through the region is under construction. If you have more time, combine Sălaj with a road trip through Maramureș, which borders the county to the north.