Zeeland

Zeeland is made up of islands and peninsulas shaped by the sea and the mouths of the Scheldt, Meuse, and Rhine. A vacation in Zeeland means long sandy beaches, bike paths along the dikes, fresh mussels, and an engineering feat that has become a symbol of the Dutch fight against the water.

Islands, Dikes, and Beaches

Walcheren, Schouwen-Duiveland, Noord- and Zuid-Beveland, Tholen, and Zeeuws-Vlaanderen on the south bank of the Western Scheldt are the major parts of the province. The coast of Walcheren, with Domburg, Westkapelle, and Zoutelande, is among the sunniest areas in the Netherlands; dunes, wide beaches, and beach pavilions define the scene. On Schouwen-Duiveland, Renesse and Burgh-Haamstede are popular seaside resorts, and the Eastern Scheldt area is a national park with seals, oyster beds, and a diving ground. Sailing and surfing are popular on the Veerse Meer and the Grevelingenmeer, a large saltwater lake.

The Delta Works

On the night of February 1, 1953, a storm surge breached numerous dikes, and more than 1,800 people died. In response, the Netherlands adopted the Delta Plan, a chain of dams, locks, and storm surge barriers that drastically shortened the coastline. The centerpiece is the Eastern Scheldt storm surge barrier, about nine kilometers long, which is closed only during storms so that the tides and nature behind it are preserved. On the artificial island of Neeltje Jans, a visitor park explains the technology. The Watersnoodmuseum in Ouwerkerk commemorates the flood disaster.

Cities and Sights in Zeeland

Middelburg, the capital, was the most important seat of the Dutch East India Company after Amsterdam during the Golden Age. The abbey with the Lange Jan tower and the magnificent town hall on the market square were rebuilt after wartime destruction. Vlissingen, the port city on the Western Scheldt, has a boulevard with views of the seagoing ships passing on their way to Antwerp, and it is the birthplace of Admiral Michiel de Ruyter. Zierikzee, with its old harbor and city gates, is one of the most atmospheric small towns, and Veere is a tiny harbor town with a late Gothic church. Goes, on Zuid-Beveland, has a lively weekly market, and Terneuzen, on the Flemish side, has huge locks on the canal to Ghent.

Food and Drink

Zeeland mussels from the Eastern Scheldt are considered the best in the country, and the season begins in July. Yerseke is the center of mussel and oyster farming, and the restaurants by the harbor serve them steamed in white wine, with fries and mayonnaise. Oysters, lobster from the Eastern Scheldt, and samphire, a salty coastal vegetable, round out the offerings. On the sweet side are Zeeuwse bolus, snail-shaped sugar-and-cinnamon yeast rolls.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

You can reach Zeeland by car from Antwerp or Rotterdam; the rail line ends in Vlissingen, and a ferry connects Vlissingen with Breskens. The Western Scheldt Tunnel leads to Zeeuws-Vlaanderen. The best time for a beach vacation is between June and September, while spring and fall are ideal for bike tours along the dams, when the beaches are empty and the light is especially clear. Among the most popular Zeeland destinations in summer are Domburg and Renesse, so vacation homes there book up early. It's quieter on Tholen or in Zeeuws-Vlaanderen, where villages like Sluis, with its fortifications and many shops, attract visitors from Belgium.