Monaco

After Vatican City, Monaco is the second-smallest country in the world, barely more than two square kilometers (about three-quarters of a square mile) in size and built on a steep slope between the Maritime Alps and the Mediterranean. A trip to Monaco works well as a day trip from Nice, but if you vacation in Monaco and stay overnight, you'll see the principality away from the cruise ship crowds, when the lights of the yachts come on in the harbor.

Monaco-Ville: The Rock

The historic heart sits on the Rocher, a rocky promontory rising some 60 meters (about 200 feet) straight out of the sea. This is where the Prince's Palace stands, seat of the Grimaldi family since 1297, when a family member disguised as a monk captured the fortress. Every day shortly before noon, the Changing of the Guard by the Carabiniers takes place in front of the palace, and in summer you can tour the state apartments. In the narrow lanes of the old town stands the white stone cathedral, where Princess Grace, the former actress Grace Kelly, and Prince Rainier III are buried. At the edge of the Rock sits the Oceanographic Museum, opened in 1910 by Prince Albert I, with a large aquarium and views across the sea to the Italian coast. Below it, the Saint-Martin Gardens, with Aleppo pines and agaves, spill down the hillside.

Monte Carlo and Monaco's Sights

Monte Carlo is the district that created the myth. The Monte Carlo Casino, founded in 1863 and expanded with an opera hall by Charles Garnier, the architect of the Paris Opera, dominates the Place du Casino. Across the square are the Hôtel de Paris and the Café de Paris, and in front of them sports cars line up, which visitors eagerly photograph. At Port Hercule, yachts as big as apartment buildings lie at anchor. The Jardin Exotique on the hillside displays cacti and succulents from around the world, and a stalactite cave lies beneath it. If you want to swim, you'll find a public beach at Larvotto Beach in the east.

Formula 1, Tennis, and Festivals

In late May or early June, Monaco turns into a racetrack. At the Monaco Grand Prix, Formula 1 cars race through the streets, through the tunnel under the Fairmont Hotel, and along the harbor quays, and balconies become the most expensive box seats of the season. In April, the tennis world gathers for the Masters tournament at the Monte-Carlo Country Club, and in January the Monte-Carlo Rally gets under way. National Day on November 19 is the Prince's Day, and in late January the patron saint Sainte Dévote is honored with the burning of a boat in front of the church that bears her name.

Food and Drink

Monégasque cuisine is close to that of Nice and Liguria. Barbagiuan, fried pastry pockets filled with Swiss chard and ricotta, is the national dish and is served everywhere on National Day. Socca, a thin flatbread made from chickpea flour, pissaladière with onions and anchovies, and stocafi, dried cod in tomato sauce, are also part of the tradition. Alongside Michelin-starred restaurants such as Louis XV at the Hôtel de Paris, the Marché de la Condamine is worth a visit, where you can eat an inexpensive lunch at the stalls.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

Monaco has no airport of its own. The nearest is Nice Côte d’Azur (NCE); from there, buses take about 45 minutes and helicopters seven minutes. The most convenient option is the train: regional trains along the coast connect Nice with Monaco's underground station in just over 20 minutes. If you're driving, one of the Corniche roads is the best choice, with spectacular views. Within the principality itself, public elevators and escalators take care of the changes in elevation.

The best time to visit Monaco is between May and October. In July and August, temperatures climb to 27 to 30 degrees Celsius (81 to 86°F) and the sea reaches 24 degrees Celsius (75°F), but it is also the most crowded. May, June, and September are ideal. Thanks to the mild climate, with around 14 degrees Celsius (57°F) in January, Monaco is pleasant in winter, too.