Discover Boca del Río: Beaches, Son, and Seafood
Travel guide · editorialWhere the Río Jamapa flows into the Gulf of Mexico, you'll find Boca del Río, the modern beach suburb of Veracruz. A vacation in Boca del Río combines sunshine at Playa Mocambo, seafood restaurants at the river mouth, and the easygoing spirit of Jarocho culture.
Fishing Village with a Hotel Coast
For a long time, Boca del Río was a small fishing village at the mouth of the Jamapa, famous for the fresh seafood that residents of the port city of Veracruz came here to eat on weekends. Starting in the 1980s, the two towns grew together. Today Boca del Río and Veracruz form one metropolitan area, and the coastal road is lined with hotels, high-rises, the World Trade Center Veracruz, and large shopping centers. Even so, the old town center at the river mouth has kept its charm.
Sights in Boca del Río
The long Boulevard Manuel Ávila Camacho follows the coast from Veracruz all the way to Boca del Río and invites you to stroll or cycle. Playa Mocambo is one of the region's most popular beaches, with palapas and calm water. Farther south, beaches stretch to the river mouth, where fishermen moor their boats and excursion boats set off for the Mandinga mangroves. At the Acuario de Veracruz, on the border with the neighboring city, you can see sharks, manatees, and reef dwellers from the Gulf. Divers come for the Sistema Arrecifal Veracruzano National Park, an offshore reef system with shipwrecks. A short excursion takes you to the old town of Veracruz with the San Juan de Ulúa fortress and the Malecón.
Eating in Boca del Río
The restaurants in Boca del Río are known for their seafood. Classics include pescado a la veracruzana with tomatoes, olives, and capers; arroz a la tumbada, a soupy rice dish with seafood; cocteles, jaibas (blue crabs), and river langostinos. In the old town center, traditional restaurants stand side by side, often with musicians playing son jarocho on the jarana and harp. For coffee, make a detour to the Café de la Parroquia in Veracruz, where you tap your spoon against the glass to get your milk topped off.
Day Trips in the Surrounding Area
Boca del Río is a good base for exploring the region. To the south lies Antón Lizardo, a fishing village with boat trips to the offshore islands and reefs. In the Mandinga lagoon area, fishermen guide you through mangrove tunnels and afterward serve oysters and fish in stilt restaurants. Farther inland you reach La Antigua, where Hernán Cortés is said to have built one of the first Spanish houses on the mainland in 1519; a ruin overgrown with tree roots recalls the story. In Xalapa, the state capital, the Museum of Anthropology displays the famous Olmec colossal heads.
Nightlife, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit
In the evening the area comes alive: bars along the coastal road, salsa and danzón venues, and clubs draw a young crowd. The highlight of the year is the Veracruz Carnival before Lent. Veracruz Airport is only about 20 minutes away, and long-distance buses run from Veracruz in all directions. As in many parts of Veracruz, crime is a concern; with the usual precautions, a stay in the tourist zones is quite manageable. The best time to visit is between November and April. In winter, cold north winds known as "Nortes" can briefly bring rough surf and cool weather; summer is hot and falls within hurricane season.