Takamatsu · 高松市

A bowl of udon for breakfast, a stroll through one of Japan's most beautiful landscape gardens, and then a boat out to the art islands: that's a typical day in Takamatsu. The port city on Shikoku is the ideal starting point for a trip into the island world of the Seto Inland Sea.

Ritsurin and the Castle by the Sea

Ritsurin Garden was laid out in the 17th century, expanded over generations by the Matsudaira lords, and ranks among the largest historic gardens in the country: ponds, arched bridges, artfully shaped pines, and forested Mount Shiun as a backdrop. At the Kikugetsu-tei teahouse, matcha is served with a view of the water. Near the harbor lies Tamamo Park with the remains of Takamatsu Castle, one of the few seaside castles in Japan: its moats are fed with seawater and are home to sea bream that you can feed.

Sights in Takamatsu

East of the city rises the Yashima mesa, where the Heike and the Genji fought a famous battle in 1185; at the top you'll find Temple No. 84 of the Shikoku pilgrimage route and viewpoints over the islands. At the foot, the open-air museum Shikoku Mura displays old farmhouses and a suspension bridge made of vines. In the center, covered shopping streets such as Marugame-machi link department stores, cafés, and pubs over several kilometers – an arcade network said to be the longest in Japan. Art lovers should book ahead for the Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum in the Mure district, where the sculptor's studio has been preserved.

Sanuki Udon and More: Eating in Takamatsu

Kagawa calls itself the Udon Prefecture, and in Takamatsu there are noodle shops on almost every corner. Sanuki udon are thick, square-cut, and firm to the bite; at self-service shops you pick up your noodles, choose a broth and tempura toppings, and often pay only a few hundred yen. In the evening, restaurants in Takamatsu put honetsuki-dori on the menu, a crispy roasted chicken leg with plenty of garlic and pepper that originates from nearby Marugame. Add to that fish from the Inland Sea and olive products from the island of Shōdoshima.

Naoshima and the Art Islands

The ferry ride to Naoshima takes about an hour, considerably less by speedboat. On the island, the Benesse Foundation has created museums and outdoor art since the 1990s: Tadao Andō's underground Chichu Art Museum shows Monet's water lilies in natural daylight, and Yayoi Kusama's polka-dotted pumpkin sits on the beach. On Teshima, the Teshima Art Museum arches like a water droplet over a hillside of rice terraces. The island of Megijima off Takamatsu is said to be the oni island from the fairy tale of Momotarō and, with its caves and beach, makes for a pleasant half-day visit. Timed-entry tickets are advisable for the popular museums.

Getting Around and Excursions

Takamatsu Airport (TAK) is about 40 minutes south by bus. From Okayama, the Marine Liner crosses the Seto-Ōhashi Bridge in just under an hour. In the city, Kotoden trains run, and they also go to Kotohira with the Konpira-san shrine. Ferries leave the harbor for Naoshima, Teshima, Shōdoshima, Megijima, and Ogijima – venues of the Setouchi Triennale, which brings art to the islands every three years. The best times to visit are spring and fall; the climate is mild and comparatively dry.