Salerno

Where the Amalfi Coast ends and the wide plain of Paestum begins, you'll find Salerno – more relaxed and more affordable than its famous neighbors. A trip to Salerno combines a lively old town, a palm-lined waterfront promenade, and short boat rides to Amalfi and Positano.

From the Medical School to the Allied Landing

In the Middle Ages, Salerno was an important capital under the Lombards and Normans. This is where the Scuola Medica Salernitana was founded, considered Europe's oldest medical school, bringing together physicians, scholars, and texts from the Arabic, Greek, and Latin worlds. In September 1943, Allied troops landed in the Gulf of Salerno, and for several months the city served as the seat of the Italian government. The Giardino della Minerva, a terraced medicinal herb garden above the old town, recalls the tradition of the medical school.

Sights in Salerno

The Cathedral of San Matteo, founded by Robert Guiscard in the 11th century, houses the relics of the Evangelist Matthew in its baroque-decorated crypt. The atrium with its ancient columns and the bronze doors from Constantinople are worth a closer look. The old town, with the Via dei Mercanti, is a tangle of alleys, churches, and small shops. High above the city stands the Lombard Castello di Arechi, with views across the gulf. The Lungomare Trieste, one of the longest waterfront promenades in Italy, is where locals gather for an evening stroll. The ferry terminal designed by architect Zaha Hadid adds a modern touch.

Eating and Going Out

Salerno lies between the lemon groves of the coast and the buffalo pastures of the plain. That's why buffalo mozzarella, scialatielli with seafood, anchovies from Cetara, and colatura di alici, a fish sauce with ancient roots, are staples on the table. To finish, there's limoncello or delizia al limone. In the old town's alleys around the Via dei Mercanti and Largo Campo, the wine bars fill up in the evening, while in the new town, cafés along Corso Vittorio Emanuele beckon.

Festival of Lights and Other Celebrations

From November to January, the "Luci d'Artista" turn the city into a gallery of light installations that draws visitors from all over southern Italy. In September, Salerno celebrates its patron saint, San Matteo, with a large procession in which the saints' statues are carried through the old town by bearer confraternities. In summer, concerts and theater performances are held at the Castello di Arechi and in the Villa Comunale city park, and the Teatro Verdi offers an opera season.

Getting Around and Day Trips

Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport has recently been served by scheduled flights again, but most travelers arrive via Naples, which is about 40 minutes away by train. High-speed trains connect Salerno with Rome and the north. In summer, boats depart from the harbor for Amalfi, Positano, and Capri – a good alternative to the traffic-prone coastal road. South of the city are the Greek temples of Paestum, some of the best-preserved in the world. The best times to visit are spring and early fall. If you're looking for more affordable lodging for a vacation on the Amalfi Coast, stay in Salerno and take the boat over – it saves money and the hassle of finding parking in the narrow coastal towns.