Modena

In attics, aceto balsamico ages for decades, in workshops nearby sports cars take shape, and in the middle of the old town stands one of the most beautiful Romanesque cathedrals in Europe: Modena brings together good food, engines, and art. A city break in Modena is relaxed, easygoing, and a culinary highlight of any trip through Emilia-Romagna.

Romans, the Este, and Engines

The Roman colony of Mutina lay on the Via Aemilia. Construction of the cathedral began in 1099, and from 1598 Modena was the capital of the duchy of the Este family, who had previously been driven out of Ferrara. The mighty Palazzo Ducale dates from this period and is now home to the military academy. In the 20th century, Enzo Ferrari made the region the center of sports car manufacturing; Maserati is also based in Modena, while Lamborghini and Pagani are nearby. The tenor Luciano Pavarotti was born here and is buried here.

Sights in Modena

The cathedral with its reliefs by the sculptor Wiligelmo, the Ghirlandina bell tower, and the Piazza Grande together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The reliefs on the façade tell the story of Creation with astonishing expressiveness, and a side portal shows one of the earliest depictions of the Arthurian legend. The Palazzo dei Musei houses the Galleria Estense, with works by Velázquez, Correggio, and Tintoretto, as well as the Biblioteca Estense with the magnificently illuminated Bible of Borso d'Este. In the centro storico, arcaded streets such as Via Emilia Centro invite you to stroll, and in the evening young people gather on the Piazza della Pomposa.

Ferrari and Pavarotti

The Museo Enzo Ferrari in Modena, with a yellow roof shaped like a car hood, tells the story of the company's founder; in Maranello, about 20 kilometers to the south, the Ferrari Museum displays Formula 1 race cars. Pavarotti's house on the edge of town is open to visitors as a museum. The Teatro Comunale now bears his name.

Eating in Modena

Traditional Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, made from cooked grape must, ages for at least twelve years in barrels made from different woods; at the acetaie you can taste it and visit family-run producers. Other local specialties include tortellini, tigelle, and gnocco fritto, which are eaten with cured meats and cheese, zampone, a stuffed pig's trotter, and the red Lambrusco di Sorbara. The Mercato Albinelli, a market hall dating from 1931, is the place for fresh produce. Modena also has a well-known fine-dining scene offering modern interpretations of tradition.

Getting Around and Best Time to Visit

The nearest major airport is Bologna, which you can reach by train in about half an hour. The center is compact and flat, ideal for pedestrians and cyclists; buses connect the outer districts. Day trips lead to Carpi with its huge Renaissance piazza, to Maranello, and into the Apennine foothills, where chestnuts and mushrooms are gathered. The best times to visit are spring and fall; in September many towns in the area celebrate grape harvest festivals, and at the end of the month the Philosophy Festival takes place, when squares and churches turn into lecture halls.