Viljandi County

In the hill country of southern Estonia lies Viljandi County, a region of lakes, forests, bogs, and a small town that becomes the capital of folk music once a year. A trip to Viljandimaa is an excursion into rural Estonia, with wooden houses, manor parks, and a large bog national park.

Viljandi: Castle Hill and Folk Music

The county seat of Viljandi sits high above the lake of the same name. In the Middle Ages, one of the largest castles of the Livonian Order stood here; today only wall remnants survive in a park with hills, moats, and a suspension bridge, a popular spot for walks and concerts. The old town consists of wooden houses, cobblestones, and a small Hanseatic legacy, since Viljandi was a member of the Hanseatic League. At the end of July, Viljandi Folk takes place, the largest music festival of its kind in the Baltics, with stages in the castle park. The University of Tartu's Viljandi Culture Academy trains musicians and craftspeople here, which gives the town a creative atmosphere.

Sights in Viljandimaa

Part of Soomaa National Park lies in the west of the county, with boardwalks across raised bogs and the spring flooding. In the north lies Olustvere Manor, with its manor house and a school for crafts and agriculture; in the south, near Karksi-Nuia, stands the ruin of a Livonian Order castle next to the village church. Lake Viljandi invites you to swim and row in summer, and in winter you can walk on the ice. Off the main roads are villages where farm shops sell honey, cheese, and bread.

The region of Sakala, as its historic name goes, was the scene of the Estonians' battles against the crusaders in the 13th century; the Estonian leader Lembitu fell in the Battle of Viljandi in 1217. In the 19th century, the area became a center of the national awakening, as farmers bought their farms free and founded singing and educational societies. To this day the county is shaped by agriculture, with grain fields, dairy farms, and small sawmills.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

A train connects Viljandi with Tallinn in just over two hours, and buses run to Tartu and Pärnu. The best time to visit is summer, especially around the folk festival in July, which you should book early. In spring, Soomaa is worth a visit for the fifth season.