Varaždin County

Varaždin briefly served as the capital of Croatia in the 18th century and has kept its baroque splendor to this day. A trip to Varaždin takes you to one of the most beautiful old towns in the country, to a fairy-tale castle above a lake, and into the hills of the Zagorje. The county lies in northern Croatia, on the border with Slovenia and Hungary.

Landscape and Location

The county stretches from the Drava plain in the north to the hills of the Zagorje and the Ivanščica mountain range in the south, whose peak, at over 1,000 meters, is the highest in northern Croatia. Vineyards, forests, and small villages shape the landscape. Varaždin lies near the Drava River, while Ivanec and Novi Marof are small towns in the hill country. Near Varaždin, the Drava has been dammed to form a reservoir, with bike paths and swimming spots along its shores. Varaždinske Toplice, a thermal spa town with the ruins of the Roman baths of Aquae Iasae, lies about 15 kilometers southeast of the city.

Sights in Varaždin County

Varaždin's old town is an ensemble of baroque palaces, churches, and townhouses. A major fire in 1776 ended its role as capital, but many buildings were restored. Stari Grad castle, with its white walls, moat, and earthen ramparts, houses the city museum. The city cemetery, with its clipped hedges and tree-lined avenues, is laid out like a park and is considered one of the most beautiful in Europe. Every August, the Špancirfest turns the streets into a stage for street performers, musicians, and craftspeople, and in the fall the Baroque Evenings bring concerts to town. About 40 kilometers to the southwest, Trakošćan Castle stands on a hill above a lake. It is one of the most photographed castles in Croatia, with furniture, weapons, and portraits of the Counts Drašković.

Food, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit

The cuisine is continental: chicken with mlinci, sausages, and cakes such as gibanica. Typical of Varaždin is the Varaždinski klipić, a yeast pastry shaped like a crescent roll. White wines such as Graševina and Pušipel come from the hills. Varaždin is about an hour from Zagreb via the A4 motorway and has a train station. The best time to visit is May through September, especially during the Špancirfest in August.