Hunan

Hunan is famous for two things: the floating sandstone pillars of Zhangjiajie and a cuisine that out-spices even Sichuan. But a vacation in Hunan also leads to riverside old towns, to Miao and Tujia villages, and to sites of revolutionary history, because this is where Mao Zedong was born.

Landscape South of the Lake

The name Hunan means "south of the lake" and refers to Dongting Lake, one of China's largest freshwater lakes, whose surface area varies widely with the seasons. The Xiang River runs through the province from south to north and passes through Changsha. Mountain ranges frame the land to the east, south, and west; in the northwest, the Wuling Mountains rise with their rugged quartz sandstone. The climate is humid subtropical, with hot summers and cool, damp winters.

Sights in Hunan

The Wulingyuan area near Zhangjiajie is a UNESCO World Heritage Site: more than 3,000 rock pillars rise out of the forest, often wrapped in mist, and inspired the floating mountains in the film "Avatar." Elevators, cable cars, and hiking trails open up the area, which is best explored over several days. Nearby lies Tianmen Mountain with its enormous natural rock arch and glass walkways along the cliff face. Fenghuang, an old Miao and Tujia town in the west, stands on stilt houses along the Tuo River and glows in lantern light in the evening. Changsha has an outstanding collection in the Hunan Museum, including the remarkably well-preserved mummy of the Lady of Dai from Mawangdui, more than 2,000 years old. Yuelu Mountain, with its Song-era academy, and Orange Isle (Juzizhou) in the Xiang River invite leisurely walks. Mount Heng in the south is one of China's five sacred mountains. The Bailong Elevator, a glass lift on the rock wall, carries visitors more than 300 meters up in under two minutes. If you spend the night in the park, you'll reach viewpoints like the Tianzi Mountain range early in the morning, ahead of the tour groups.

History and Revolution

Shaoshan, Mao Zedong's birthplace, remains a pilgrimage site for many Chinese; you can visit his family home and a museum. Other revolutionaries, such as Liu Shaoqi, also came from Hunan. The legacy of the poet Qu Yuan reaches back further; his death in the Miluo River is linked to the Dragon Boat Festival. In the mountains of the west live the Tujia, Miao, and Dong, with their own songs, costumes, and timber buildings. In Changsha, a giant stone bust on Orange Isle commemorates the young Mao, who went to school here.

Food and Drink

Xiang cuisine is hot and sour, with fresh and pickled chilies, smoked meat, and plenty of garlic. Well-known dishes include fish head with chopped chilies, Mao's red-braised pork, and the dark stinky tofu of Changsha. In the evening, people gather at street stalls for spicy crayfish and rice noodles. To drink, there's tea from Junshan in Dongting Lake.

Getting There and Best Time to Visit

Changsha lies on the Beijing–Guangzhou high-speed rail line, and a high-speed train connects the provincial capital with Zhangjiajie, which also has its own airport. The best times to visit are spring and fall; summer is hot and crowded in Zhangjiajie, while winter is often foggy but quiet.