Gjirokastra County: Stone City and the Drino Valley
Travel guide · editorialGray, shimmering stone roofs climbing up a mountainside, crowned by a mighty fortress: Gjirokastra is one of the most impressive towns in the Balkans. A trip to Gjirokastra County takes you to an Ottoman old town that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and to the quiet valleys of the Drino and the Vjosa.
The "City of Stone"
The old town consists of fortified tower houses known as kullas, with thick walls, wooden bay windows, and roofs of slate slabs. Some can be visited, such as the Zekate House with its magnificent reception room. Gjirokastra is the birthplace of the dictator Enver Hoxha and the writer Ismail Kadare, whose novel "Chronicle in Stone" describes the town; his birthplace is now a museum that also hosts readings and small exhibitions. The enormous fortress houses a weapons museum, an American aircraft from the Cold War, and, every few years, the National Folklore Festival. In the bazaar district, vendors sell rugs, copperware, and embroidery. The steep alleys paved with limestone call for sturdy footwear, but reward you with views of the Drino Valley and the mountains of the Lunxhëria range.
Sights in Gjirokastra County
About 30 kilometers away lie the ruins of the ancient city of Antigonea, overlooking the Drino Valley. With its fortress, Tepelena recalls Ali Pasha, the powerful Ottoman governor who was born here. In the east of the county flows the Vjosa, one of Europe's last wild rivers, protected as a national park since 2023. Near Përmet, the thermal springs of Benja beneath an Ottoman bridge invite you to take a dip, and the town is known for its preserves and raki. Typical dishes of Gjirokastra include qifqi, fried rice balls with mint, and shapkat, a corn dish with leeks and yogurt.
Getting There and Best Time to Visit
Gjirokastra lies on the road from Tirana to Greece, about four hours from the capital and one hour from Saranda. It is most beautiful in spring and early fall; summers can be hot. If you stay overnight in the old town, you will experience Gjirokastra at its best in the quiet evening hours.