Volyn Oblast

Volhynia in northwestern Ukraine is a land of forests, bogs, and clear lakes on the border with Poland and Belarus. Because of Russia's war of aggression, a travel warning is in effect for Ukraine; a trip to Volhynia is described here as a portrait, for a time when conditions allow it again.

Lutsk and Its Castle

Lutsk on the Styr River is one of the oldest cities in Ukraine. At the center of the Old Town stands Prince Lubart's Castle from the 14th century, whose brick walls and towers are fully preserved; its image appears on the 200-hryvnia banknote. Nearby are the Jesuit church, a Lutheran church, and a Renaissance synagogue, reminders of the many faiths that once lived side by side here. In late summer, the medieval festival turns the castle into a military encampment.

Around Lutsk, the folk museum in Rokyni and the palace in Olyka, once the residence of the Radziwiłł family, are worth a visit. The city also has a museum of modern Ukrainian art that displays a large private collection.

Lakes and Forests

In the far northwest lies Shatsk National Nature Park with more than 30 lakes, including Lake Svitiaz, one of the largest and deepest natural lakes in Ukraine. Sandy beaches, pine forests, and clear water made the area a popular summer destination. A large part of the oblast belongs to Polesia: bogs, the floodplains of the Pripyat River, and villages with wooden churches. Volodymyr, formerly Volodymyr-Volynskyi, is an old princely city with a cathedral from the 12th century, and Kovel is an important railway junction. The region was the site of grave crimes during World War II, which memorials commemorate. In autumn, the forests of Polesia turn spectacular colors.

Food and Getting There

Volhynian cuisine draws on forest and water: mushroom soup, fish from the lakes, potato dishes, and blueberries, which are gathered in large quantities in Polesia. Lutsk is reachable by train and bus from Lviv and Kyiv, and the Polish border near Yahodyn is close. Air raids are possible here too, so be sure to follow current safety advisories. In peacetime, the best time to visit is from June to September.