Obwalden

Obwalden is the part of the old Unterwalden "above the Kernwald" and stretches from Lake Sarnen to more than 3,000 meters on Mount Titlis. A trip to Obwalden takes you to a monastery village beneath a glacier peak, to quiet mountain lakes, and to the hermitage of Switzerland's national saint.

Sarnen and the Sarneraatal

The main town of Sarnen sits at the northern end of Lake Sarnen and preserves the White Book of Sarnen in its state archives, the oldest written account of the William Tell legend. The Landsgemeinde, the open-air citizens' assembly, was held on the Landenberg until 1998. The valley climbs through Sachseln, Giswil and Lungern to the Brünig Pass; in summer, Lake Lungern glows turquoise. Kerns is a sprawling municipality that includes the Melchtal and Melchsee-Frutt, a high plateau dotted with lakes that draws hikers in summer and skiers in winter.

Lake Sarnen offers swimming spots and rowing waters, and in Sachseln the parish church holds the tomb of Brother Klaus. The Melchtal has via ferratas and the route to the lakes of Melchsee-Frutt, where cows graze on the alpine pastures in summer and cable cars run up from Stöckalp.

Engelberg and Mount Titlis

Separated from the rest of Obwalden by a sliver of Nidwalden, Engelberg lies in a high valley. The Benedictine monastery, founded in 1120, has its own show dairy and a magnificent Baroque church. Above the village rises Mount Titlis at 3,238 meters: the rotating Rotair gondola carries visitors up to the glacier, where a suspension bridge and a glacier cave await. Engelberg is a stop on the Ski Jumping World Cup circuit and, in summer, the starting point for hikes to Lake Trübsee.

Engelberg is worth a visit even if you don't ski: the Trübsee loop trail, Brunni with Lake Härzlisee, and the via ferrata on the Fürenwand attract hikers, and in winter toboggan runs and winter hiking trails invite you out for day trips.

Brother Klaus, Cuisine and When to Go

In Flüeli-Ranft near Sachseln, Niklaus von Flüe lived as a hermit in the 15th century. The saint is regarded as a peacemaker of the Swiss Confederation; his hermitage in the Ranft gorge remains a pilgrimage destination to this day. Typical local fare includes alpine cheese, Älplermagronen (Alpine macaroni with potatoes, cheese and onions), and fish from Lake Sarnen. Sarnen is on the Zentralbahn line between Lucerne and Interlaken, and Engelberg is reachable from Lucerne in about 45 minutes. The best time to visit is June to October; the ski season on Titlis runs from November to May.