Västerbotten: Umeå, Skellefteå, and Southern Lapland
Travel guide · editorialVästerbotten stretches from the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia to the mountains of Lapland on the Norwegian border. A vacation in Västerbotten combines two young, lively coastal cities with wild rivers, reindeer country, and a mountain landscape that invites hiking and skiing.
Landscape and Location
The coast is flat and rich in islands, while inland, forests and bogs stretch out, crossed by rivers such as the Ume älv, the Skellefte älv, and the Vindelälven, one of Sweden's last large undammed rivers. The west belongs to Lapland, with the mountain region around Hemavan and Tärnaby, where the Kungsleden has its southern starting point. In winter, snow is reliable here; in summer, thanks to the proximity to the Arctic Circle, it almost never gets dark. Off Umeå lies the island of Holmön, reachable in summer by ferry from Norrfjärden and a destination for bird-watchers and cyclists. The Vindelälven is known for its rapids and its upstream-migrating salmon. The coast near Skellefteå is lined with sandy beaches such as Byske Havsbad.
Sights in Västerbotten
Umeå, the capital, is a university city with many young people and was a European Capital of Culture in 2014. After a fire in 1888, birch avenues were planted as firebreaks, which is why the city is nicknamed the City of Birches. The Bildmuseet on the river shows contemporary art, while the Gammlia open-air museum presents the history of the region. Skellefteå has developed into a technology city, and the Sara Kulturhus is one of the tallest timber high-rises in the world; Bonnstan, a church town with more than 100 small wooden houses, stands in contrast to it. Along the Vindelälven there are rapids such as Mårdseleforsen with suspension bridges, and in Lycksele a wildlife park offers an introduction to the fauna of the north. Hemavan and Tärnaby are winter sports resorts and, in summer, starting points for mountain hikes. In Umeå, the Museum Guitars holds one of the largest collections of electric guitars, and the Västerbottens Museum tells the story of life in the north. Between Norsjö and Mensträsk, you can glide over the forests on an old ore cable car, and gold was mined in the mining area around Boliden.
Culture and Tradition
The forests and mountains are home to the Sami, who practice reindeer herding; in places like Storuman and Sorsele, you can learn more about their culture. Västerbotten is also the home of the cheese of the same name, which has been made in Burträsk since the 19th century. In Lycksele, the Gammplatsen open-air museum shows Sami structures and settlers' farmsteads. Umeå also has a strong art and music scene that has produced well-known bands.
Food, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit
Västerbotten cheese is sharp and robust, a must at crayfish parties and in a famous quiche. Also on the menu are tunnbröd, a thin flatbread, palt, reindeer, Arctic char, and cloudberries. Umeå and Skellefteå have airports with connections to Stockholm, trains run south via the Botnia Line, and ferries connect Umeå with Vaasa in Finland. The best time to visit for hiking is June through August, and for snow and the northern lights, February through March. To reach Hemavan from Umeå, you drive along the Blue Highway, the E12, which continues all the way to the Norwegian coast. In winter, dogsled or snowmobile excursions lead through deeply snow-covered forests.

