Vaslui: Moldavian Hill Country on the Prut
Travel guide · editorialA trip to Vaslui takes you into the hill country of Romanian Moldavia, where the Prut River forms the border with the Republic of Moldova. Vaslui County is barely developed for tourism, yet it is home to an important battlefield of Stephen the Great, old vineyards, and towns with a long scholarly tradition.
Landscape and History
Broad, gently rolling hills with fields, acacia woods, and small reservoirs characterize the county. The Bârlad River and its tributaries flow south, while in the east the Prut marks the national border. In Vaslui, Stephen the Great had a princely court, the remains of which can be seen in the city park; next to it stands St. John's Church, which he had built in 1490. At Podul Înalt south of the city, his army defeated a far larger Ottoman force in 1475 – one of the most important battles in Moldavian history, commemorated by a monument.
Bârlad, Huși, and Sights
The largest city in the county is Bârlad, an old trading and educational center. The Vasile Pârvan Museum displays archaeology, art, and a large collection of Moldavian folk art, and the Victor Ion Popa Theater has a good reputation. In the northeast lies Huși, a bishop's seat with a 15th-century cathedral, best known for the white wine Zghihara de Huși, a grape variety found only here. Many vineyards stretch around the town, and the grape harvest is celebrated in the fall. In the villages, wooden churches and traditional farmhouses with blue-painted window frames have been preserved. If you are looking for peace and quiet and want to experience a rural, authentic Romania without tour groups, this is the place for you; accommodations are simple but warm and welcoming, and the towns have solid hotels.
Cuisine, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit
Moldavian cuisine tastes especially rustic here: chicken borscht, pilaf, pasca filled with farmer's cheese, plum brandy, and wine from the farm. The best time to visit is late spring and the grape harvest in September. The nearest airport is Iași, about 43 miles (70 km) north of Vaslui. The E581 road runs through the county from Bucharest via Tecuci and Bârlad to Iași, and there is also a railway line.